Walking in Sicily | April 2025

It was up, up and away as the majority of the group flew Auckland to Dubai. Arriving early morning (Dubai time), we were met and transferred to our hotel. So nice to have a shower and say hello to our clothes again.

Our Dubai day was action packed… after the flight from NZ we arrived as the sun was rising over Dubai – lots of pinks and oranges reflected in the skyscrapers windows. The hotel was a welcome sight and we checked in quickly and had a break for breakfast, a change of clothes and for some a boat ride on the nearby Dubai Creek.

10am: We gathered together to set off on foot to the nearest Metro station – the hotel is surrounded by Indian Fabric shops and Gents Hairdressers (where do the women go to have their hair done?). With our daily pass in hand we were off on the Green Metro line to connect to the Red line and a high-rise ride to Dubai Mall. Dubai is a contrasting mix of shiny skyscrapers, green plant strips and sandy vacant lots. 

Arriving at the Dubai Mall Metro stop, we walked along the extensive elevated walkway, enjoying its air conditioning and view to the Burj Khalifa. I took the group to a secret viewpoint which gives an unobstructed view of the tallest building in the world. Needless to say, the Mall is beyond huge and lucky for us just as we arrived at the internal aquarium two divers were feeding the fish, stingray and sharks.

After we all had enough time, we went back to the Metro Line and took it to the Gold Souk. One of our party wanted to replace some gold earrings purchased in the same market decades ago – would you believe it she found the exact same ones and a deal was done.

Last stop for this part of the day was Mandy’s favourite Tea House and a delicious Linner (Lunch and Dinner) in the relaxed and cool atmosphere. A quick walk back to the hotel and some well deserved down time.

Later at 7pm, those who wanted to, joined Mandy for a night time Metro Ride. Dubai looks very different with the skyscrapers outlined in lights and traffic moving along the highways. As these metro trains are driverless the front carriages were a prime place to see the complete view of the ride (Ladies Only).

Tomorrow its on to Italy! 

An early start as we transferred back to the airport. Our first crisis of the day was a misplaced passport – however it was found – whew! The plane ride to Rome was much shorter than the flight from New Zealand which was welcome.

Arriving in Rome was the usual crowded experience; even using the fast gates there were just lots of people funnelled to the passport counter where our passports were stamped by very disinterested officials. Second crisis of the day was misplacing two of our group; however they very sensibly waited in an obvious place so we could find them.

A very short walk (2 mins) from Terminal 3 to Terminal 1 and we were ready for check-in for our domestic flight to Palermo, Sicily. Third crisis was one of our party being taken aside for carrying too much water through security – by this stage Mandy was ready for something a lot stronger than H2O!

Waiting for our onward flight we went our various ways to fill in time, some shopping, some reading and others a stiff drink. Meanwhile Mandy went off to find another member of our party joining us.

A delayed flight and yet a quick flight, and we arrived in Sicily; a much more rugged landscape with rocky outcrops, small square houses and the occasional glimpse of the sea. By the time we reached the centre of the old town it was after sunset and lots of pedestrians were about. Our very first impressions were the grand old buildings, stalls mixed with holiday-makers and music from the buskers.

Meeting our guide, Carmelina Ricciardello in the busy street, we walked the 50m to our hotel, Eurostars Central. Once a private home this beautifully restored palace was fill of period pieces, chandeliers and quirky corners.

Some of us went out into the night to a local restaurant for dinner and our first taste of Sicilian food. Bed was very welcome after our long travelling day.

After a hearty breakfast it was time to meet our local guide, Giusi Mandrerri (pronounced Juicy). This wonderful guide walked us along one of Palermo’s main streets, past the cathedral. Outside the cathedral we encountered Saint Rosa for the first time. Her giant image was on a wagon which is towed through the streets of Palermo on her Saints Day.

On we went through a local park to the Norman Palace and current government buildings. Grand and imposing the straight walls hid multiple treasures. The absolute highlight was the Cappella Palatina. Once the royal chapel it was designed by Roger II in 1130 to be a fusion of Byzantine, Arab, Jewish and Sicilian cultures. This space really has to be seen and experienced to get the full impact of its beauty – overall there is a harmony of colour and textile from the painted geometric shapes on the ceiling, the colourful biblical stories to the lower stone mosaics – a visual masterpiece.

Giusi was very informative as she walked us through other decorative rooms in the Palace recounting life through the centuries; we could see artistic styles influence the walls, floors and furnishings. As the Palace is also a working space we had the modern world juxtaposed against the ancient passages, rooms and towers.

But wait – the walking was not over as we returned to the pedestrian centre of the old town, Quattro Canti (four public faces or four seasons) and moved across into the Arab-Norman area. We walked around the elaborate Piazza Pretoria Fountain and to La Martorana. However, before more glorious interiors it was coffee time!

La Martorana – this church had the unusual history of first being designed as a mosque so the interiors are an odd mix of Eastern Orthodox traditions with Syrian overtones and all completed in a byzantine style. The mosaic floors were exquisite.

Its hard to believe that at one time, Palermo was the third largest city in the western world. Its size and wealth is attributed to the harmony created between the major players at the time: the Christians, the Arabs and the Jews. To emphasize this peaceful cohabitation we moved into the previous Jewish quarter where the street signs are in three languages: English, Arabic and Hebrew scripts. Today the Jews are all gone and in their place appears to be African and Indian immigrants.

We had two more churches on our programme, each a different style: Il Gesu, a Jesuit church and Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Zita was a baroque filled space of cherubs and inlay stone.

Then it was on to the tightly packed food market, Bullaro. Fish, vegetables, horse meat; all could be found to buy or eat in the open-air restaurants. Sadly it was time to say goodbye to Guisi and to thank her for her fabulous guiding.

Carmelina then walked us on through neighbourhoods pointing out interesting features until we reached our seafood restaurant for lunch. We were all interested in the story of the Sicilian mafia and the sign the local businesses employ to say they will not pay protection money.

After lunch it was free time until most of us gathered together for dinner on the roof top of the hotel. Great food, great company.

High above Palermo is Monreale, a cathedral built by William II as a result of a vision (or the more cynical amongst us might say to outdo Palermo). We started our visit with a trot around the cloisters with its hundreds of pillars. To be honest the space felt more Moorish than Christian and the fine artwork on each individual column was well worth a slow walk and careful gaze.

The cathedral opened at 10am and we wandered inside and it was so similar to the Palatine Chapel, except on steroids, that it lost the wow factor. One of the happy moments of visiting Monreale was the bell ringing which echoed around the square.

Leaving Palermo we followed the coast road towards the east and the seaside town, Cefalu. Today a place for holidays; it was once a busy fishing port.

As we wandered about we came across remains of prehistory, Greek, Roman, Moorish, medieval and modern influences. The fishing is finished and in its place appears to be tourism. Along the seaward face of the town are tall buildings which housed the fishing families (kitchen on the top and a single bedroom for everyone). The houses were (and remain) narrow and cramped together, bottom levels now tourism accommodation.

In the main square was of course the cathedral and numerous shops and cafes. Being Sunday the town was crowded and had that sunny, relaxed feel. Walking across the town we reached the seawall and found our van drivers once again.

Time to move on to Carmelina’s village, Sant’ Ambrogio. Waiting for us was Peter Closs, Carmelina’s partner, and who is joining us for the rest of our time in Sicily. Lunch was at a local restaurant and was delicious. After eating we walked with Carmelina through her village and heard about life in a small Sicilian town which is trying to survive with 50% of the houses now empty. Our last stop was a workshop of local women who enjoy making things together. They very kindly showed us what they were preparing for Easter (bees were this year’s theme).

Off and away we left the coast and headed inland to Petralia Soprana, a hilltop village and our resting place for the next four nights. It was noticeably colder in the mountains and more clothes came on when we walked to a local restaurant for dinner.

The weather didn’t quite know what to do with itself today as we started on our walk out of the village: one minute sunny, the next rain drops and finally misty. The cloud did lift from time to time so we could see back to the village or across the green valleys to more hills.

Along our walk we passed the last remains of a Roman Aqueduct, mountain flowers, fungi and Mandy’s dinosaur.

The path went from country road to stony track and passed through grazing land, past derelict buildings and tumbling streams. Once up on the ridge we walked through forest and then down to our destination, Geraci Sicuto.

Lunch was at a local place, and they just wanted to keep feeding us until we were stuffed full. After lunch we all walked to a spot on the edge of the village where a nobleman leaped off the cliff to his and his horse’s doom. Some then decided to go up to the ruins of a castle which looms over the village, and others chose to go back to the hotel.

A bit of a late start as one of our party needed to visit the Police Station – quite a unique travel souvenir – an Italian police report. We were then on our way to Piazza Armerina, an extraordinary Roman villa at Casale. Lunch at a local restaurant was delicious with a variety of pasta.

We decide to walk to the villa down a country road lined with sweet peas, wildflowers and cacti. Patricia was our guide and she certainly wanted us to visit every corner and to know as much as we wanted about the site.

Piazza Armerina is exceptional for its size and the number and variety of complete mosaics. Whoever the owner once was, Emperor or Millionaire, his home was richly decorated and designed to impress. We have a landslide to thank for the quantity and quality of the floors rediscovered.

Driving back to our mountain hotel we stopped at Enna. The day was so perfect that we could see Mt Etna and all the surrounding countryside with the viaduct highway slicing through the middle.

The vans were back to take us deep into the countryside for our walk between farms and even across them. The ridge line provided extensive views across the green fields and to the distant rocky hills. Crossing muddy paddocks, we met an Australian group going in the opposite direction and some curious donkeys.

Eventually we reached a farmhouse and the old woman who lived there came out to talk with us. Her yard had pens for goats, pigs and several noisy dogs running about. Walking beyond her place we climbed up to the ridge line again and then down into the next valley. Some of us grabbed a lift in the van to take us up the steep hill to Sperlinga. This strange little village had cave dwellings and a Norman Castle high above on granite rock.

Our van drive Nikko had prepared a picnic lunch for us from local products: spicy cheese, artichokes, smokey cheese, easter bread, his father’s olives and cooked chicken from the supermarket. All greatly appreciated after our morning’s walk of 14kms.

Carmelina walked us around the cave homes – very small, dark and hobbit like. Then we climbed the rock to the castle and explored its many rooms carved out of the stone.

Late afternoon we drove to Gangi and had a surprise visit with the Tambourine Man, the Mayor’s office and finished the day with gelato.

Leaving the mountains behind we headed towards the coast and then east. The winding country roads changed to straight raised motorways with multiple tunnels. To our left was the blue sparkling sea and to our right green valleys filled with wheat and clover.

The port was congested and noisy – quite a shock after the quiet village with its church bells. Time for a quick lunch and then it was aboard the hydrofoil for an hour’s trip via Vulcan to Lipari.

Lipari was instantly recognisable as a seaside town with its tourist shops and pedestrian streets. Our hotel was higher than the sea front and built in Mediterranean style with cool tiles on the floor and pastel colours.

In the afternoon some of us walked up a nearby hill and others trotted along to the Archaeology Museum. Lipari today appears to have the same layout as Hellenist Lipari. They found thousands of graves here and although the bones are gone the collection of grave goods is extraordinary.

Starting at the furthest point of the island a small group started their day’s walk. At midday more joined them for lunch and finished the day walking back to the hotel. Sadly some of us were unwell and they used this day as a rest day.

The rest of the day was free and many took the opportunity to shop or just enjoy a drink. Much later a few of us went back to yesterday’s restaurant for another excellent meal.

Everyone back on deck, it was our day to board a converted fishing vessel for a trip over to the nearby island of Panarea. Passing by our island we could better see the old fortifications and pumice mines.

Panarea is a smaller island where the houses are painted white with blue shutters. Only electric golf carts or motorbikes are used on the narrow winding streets – including the local carabinieri who passed us several times in their official golf carts.

Walking in the lanes between the houses we had glimpses of the sparkling blue sea and ‘ants’ (rocks in the water just offshore). The ants have been the cause of many sea wrecks as they are invisible in rough seas. Our destination was a prehistoric site high on a peninsula overlooking a swimming beach.

Later it was lunch time, a simple fare of tuna salad, pasta with tomato sauce and wine. We had our official goodbye to Carmelina here as she needed to leave the island today for another job.

On our way back to Lipari we stopped to see the fumaroles or hot water thermals rising through the seawater and for some of us to go swimming.

In the early evening it was Wine Tasting and local cheeses. David did an excellent job of choosing the white wine (Chardonnay) and a red wine (Shiraz), and explaining the similarities and differences between main grape varieties. Ann and Linda got 2 from 2. There was lots of chatter, and no wine left at the end!

It was an exciting day as we boated to the nearby island of Vulcan (or Volcano). We had to arrive before 10am as the activity in the crater was considered too sulphureous later in the day. It’s the first time I have seen traffic lights at the foot of a walk. It was green for go as we all started on our ascent of the volcanic cone. As the climb got steeper and the path more hazardous, we peeled off. There was a whiff of Sulphur in the air but nothing compared to Rotorua.

Our energetic four made it to the crater rim and could look down on the vents and rising steam. The landscape was pretty bleak and nothing was growing. After a chorus of the “Hills are Alive” we made our way down and everyone refreshed themselves with gelato and/or coffee.

Our boat was waiting for us, so we cruised around Volcano to a nearby swimming place. The water wasn’t warm, however that didn’t stop our energetic three.

Lunch was on board: homemade tuna pasta with capers.

Cruising back we passed the Angel cave and the needle rocks (lava stacks) called Pietra Menalda and Pietra Lunga.

Dinner was at a local restaurant, Filipino, up near the fortress.

Last night we were warned that high winds would start in the morning and ferries from the island were being cancelled. Our first rescheduled hydrofoil at 8.10am was cancelled and so we were rebooked on the 8.30am with our back up plan being the much slower large ferry. As we walked to the ferry terminal, we could already see the waves crashing onto the shore, the fishing boats dragged up as high as possible and then roped down.

Thankfully we got onto our full hyrdofoil and set off. First stop was supposed to be Vulcan; however the rough water made it impossible to land safely so we headed back to Lipari to offload the Vulcan passengers.

On our way again we made it to Sicily and our port there. Whew! Thankfully our transport was there waiting and amidst the rising wind, we loaded up and were on our way to Taormina.

The weather in Taormina was not so bad as the town is high up in the hills overlooking the coastline. Time for an independent lunch, check in and then some free time. Some of us chose to walk high above Taormina to Castelmola and its extensive views to the sea and down the coast. Clouds were low on the horizon and the rain coming.

Late afternoon we joined Diane a local guide for a visit to the extraordinary Greek theatre, still in use today. The roman made some changes and more recent renovations have made it more usable but the view across the stage is tremendous!

We all went out to dinner at a recommended restaurant, Mama Rosa, a local ristorante on one of the streets leading to the main pedestrian zone. During dinner we were serenaded by wandering musicians.

Our last big walk was scheduled for today and what a surprise when we arrived at our starting place on Mt Etna to hear the volcano rumbling away. The warning level had risen to yellow overnight and although we were in no danger I don’t think any of us had walked on a volcano which sounds like it’s about to erupt.

Our walk was first up to a forestry hut and then along a loop track through oak forest, old lava and new birch trees. The walk had a variety of textures as we journeyed along dirt tracks, broken lava and soft fallen leaves.

After a great walk we went back down to the vans and drove on to Etna vineyards. These hardy hectares are farmed by local families working together. Our hosts for lunch had only 8 hectares and yet contributed with some outstanding wine.

Our simple lunch was paired with white, rose and red wines. Delicious!

Following lunch, we walked to the family’s hectares and then on to the wine processing plant. Stainless steel.

Back in Taormina it was free time and an independent dinner.

Early in the morning we were awoken by an earthquake. All we need now is Etna to fully erupt.

Eight of us chose to travel to Siracusa with Nuccio. Little did we know when we set out that an accident on the motorway would cause traffic congestion, delaying us for 2 hours. What a relief to arrive in Siracusa and be able to stretch our legs.

After a necessary coffee and toilet stop it was on with walking from the Apollo Temple ruins to the main Cathedral (built out of the Greek Temple) and down to the fortress at the end of the peninsula. There were lots of winding streets and wee lanes.

Today was patchy with sprinkles of rain but nothing too serious.

This evening was our farewell dinner; what a feast with four courses and more Sicilian food than a normal person could eat!