Cuba, Panama & Costa Rica 2025

It’s a strange day when you leave on a plane for a destination and arrive 5 hours before you left after an 11 hour flight – such is the case when you fly from Auckland, NZ to Santiago, Chile.

Arriving in Santiago it was the usually efficient processing through Passport control and customs – the Chileans know how to move a lot of people systematically without drama. Our bags were there, always a good start to an adventure, and we were through to the spacious arrival hall and into the bright sunlight. A quick trot alongside the parking area and we were at our stopover hotel for a much needed lie down.

Early Sunday morning (but who knew what the real time was after all the time/date changes) and we were checked in and ready for our onward flights. I have tried to find out why the South American flights are so often at 3am and the best answer seems to be because of the cooler, denser air at that time – I understand planes need air to fly and I’m okay with that.

Six hours later and we were in Panama City; a quick and smooth transit and we were on the short 2hr 30mins flight to Cuba! I looked around the passengers and immediately noticed that we were in the minority – most people had the darker skin of South Americans or the heavier bodies of the North Americans. When we landed in Havana the passengers started clapping – we weren’t sure if it was due to the plane landing safely or the people being pleased to be home – lets go with a safe return to their homeland.

Havana airport is small (the size of Auckland’s old domestic one) and it was a trot along the corridor and we were at Passport Control. First we had to show our arrival form to a row of people in white coats sitting at old school desks – odd but not difficult. On to Passport Control and here the lines snaked across the room but processing seemed quick if rather random. Once we got to the window and the official there realised we were undoubtedly foreign, there was a cheery “Welcome to Cuba”. Another cheerful surprise was the quick delivery of our bags. Through the doors and we were outside! Yes, we were finally in Cuba and the warm, humid air enveloped us. Our guide, Mila Leouzalez, was also there and we were in a yellow Lada and off to our hotel.

First impressions. I was surprised there was a highway and along its edges spacious park areas. Everything looked old but the infrastructure was there. Old block soviet-style buildings appeared and passed and yet no people. There was also a surprising lack of traffic – a few buses, lots of Cadillacs, Ladas and some modern cars. The crumbling ruins of colonial buildings were in the historical centre. Still few people about.

We arrived at our hotel and had to wait for the receptionist to return from her long lunch. Thankfully we got access to our room and had a chance to shower and rest before heading out into the streets of Havana.

On our walk in a loose circle around our hotel we saw the once grand palaces, homes and buildings. Here and there amongst the faded facades were Art Decor motifs or decorative garlands, but you had to look past the cracks and loose plaster. The streets were potholed, and we couldn’t go far without being offered taxis or ‘free information’. Yes, Havana is poor and neglected and yet the people seem resourceful and upbeat.

The day ended with a rain storm as the sun set and Havana changed into party mode. The streets were full of people, some dancing to a Latin beat, others drinking in the brightly lit bars, others clustered in small family groups to chat.

Today was a designated recovery day so we that’s what we did. First a late breakfast and then a walk around the historic area. We chanced upon a domestic street with its old, decaying charm with pot holed lanes, people queuing to get into supermarkets and official buildings, portable shops and many dogs (and their deposits). Taking a left, we suddenly found ourselves in clean streets, beautifully restored homes and lots of tourists – these two areas were close together and it could have been we would have missed that authentic side of daily life.

In the more touristy areas, we came across dark ladies in their colourful clothes singing or slowly swaying. I later found out that slaves wore only white and the freed slaves, the colourful clothes – so the ladies waiting for the tourists were a reminder of that period of Cuban history.

Back to the hotel for a siesta and recharge and then it was out into the sun for another walk along the sea front to Hotel Nacional. This huge hotel high on a cliff face was once owned by the mafia and is a common place for foreigners to stay. The best part of the walk was the cold beer we had on the way back to the hotel – so welcome after the heat of the day… mad dogs etc

The last stop of the day was dinner and again by chance we found a wonderful restaurant which had only been open 10 days. It happened to be Greek and the food mainly fish – an excellent choice: Iris Restaurant.

Today our guide was back and the day was planned with a walking tour followed by a ride in a Cadillac. Due to our walk yesterday we had some idea where we were and actually could take in more information. Havana has lots of history and many faces.

A refreshing break at midday had us ready for a ride in a Cadillac. Who should drive up but Jesus? It almost felt like a Country & Western song, “I came to Havana and Jesus took the wheel / I just need to find my dog and he’ll know how I feel.” (Jesus is a common name in Latin America) Anyway Jesus drove us around to the north and of course Revolution Square. We did pass by China town and for an excited moment I thought to myself “Ah Chinese tonight”, only to discover there is solely pasta and pizza in Chinatown. Pass the neighbourhoods of different styles (American 30s, Russian blocks, wealthy embassies) until we reached the green area and Pina Coladas.

In the green area we were close to a river and on the riverbank were two men performing a ritual which involved ringing a bell, pouring honey into the water, laying flowers in the river and saying prayers. Our guide told us that sometimes the ritual can include a chicken sacrifice – happy not to see that one.

Back at the hotel it was siesta time before working out what we will do for New Years. One thing is for sure the Cubans were preparing for a good time.

Another bright and clear day as we headed across Havana to see a few quirky sites in the west. First stop was the huge Hotel Nacional; the casino may be gone but the grandeur lives on.

Next stop John Lennon Park. During most of Castro’s time the Beatles’ music was banned in Cuba until Castro announced it was okay and this park was established. Ironically it’s in the area which translates as Forbidden.

I asked to visit Christopher Columbus cemetery and the guide kindly fitted it in. I thought it would be a quick in, see the miracle grave and exit stage left – but no, a cemetery guide was required and we ended up with a very interesting walk around the main street of the cemetery. This place is the second largest cemetery in South America, so I am grateful it wasn’t a full-on tour. We ended the walkabout with the miracle grave – a grave that was visited every day for 40 years by a husband whose wife passed away in childbirth. Even today this grave is visited daily by women wanting to be pregnant, people for better health or other reasons and there are always flowers left.

Next unusual thing was the street where an artist wanted to honour the African religion brought by the slaves. Colours and images abound as well as bathtubs.

It was time for a trip using the tunnel under the river mouth to the far side and Spanish fortresses. The first one El Morro was built to defend the river mouth and therefore Old Havana. The second just down the road was built because of Captain Henry Morgan, the notorious pirate. He made himself very rich on plundering Spanish gold and he lived on this side of the river. The fortress the Spanish built was hugely expensive and the King of Spain, Charles III, was to say, “For the price, the fort must be so big I should be able to see it from Spain.”

Strangely we were the only people in the extensive area with its double moats and huge buildings. Time for coffee and some shade.

Last stop was a statue of Christ on the hill overlooking Old Havana. Made of Italian marble, it stands alone on its hill. The locals joke that the right hand looks like it holds a cigar and the left a glass of rum. Descending the slope to the local ferry we joined the locals on the fast trip (10 mins) across the river to the city.

After a rest we headed out for a bit of Linner (lunch and dinner) and managed to find the Pirate Cafe. An eclectic place with live music, cheap drinks and great food.

West, we went to Valle de Vinales, a beautiful valley full of limestone structures and caves. The highway out of Havana was 3 lanes each way and in goodish condition, However, once we went further on, the road became narrower and full of potholes. The roads are not busy and at times there are horse & carts, overloaded motorcycles and even some speedy bicycles. Houses out in the country are very small (barely 3 rooms) with a porch and one or two rocking chairs . The land is cultivated with rice, tobacco and sugar cane.

First stop was a tobacco farm and we walked from the young plants to the drying room to the place where the farmer can roll his private 10% (90% of the crop goes to the Government). I was astounded to learn a Cuban cigar can sell for US$220! Not being a smoker I can’t tell the quality of cigars but the ones from the farmer’s private collection impressed the guide.

On to a viewpoint of the valley and then a quick whip down to the valley floor to get ahead of the tour buses and access into the limestone caves. In the 70’s the Government made these natural caves into a tourist attraction so the floor is concreted and the path lit. At the end of the 200m into the cave is a boat ride.

Lunch was next and we visited an organic restaurant set on the side of the valley. The views were panoramic, the food plentiful and delicious and the Pina Colada something else again. Paradise Organic Farm: highly recommended.

Last stop was the prehistoric wall painting which had nothing to do with early human attempts. Painted on the rock wall in the 20th century the mural is impressive by its size.

Back to Havana to end the day with another Pina Colada on the hotel roof watching the last of the sunset.

The first part of today’s journey to the south-east was on the highway; once again its remarkable how few vehicles are on the road. We detoured from the itinerary to go directly south to the Bay of Pigs. This region was a marshy area and dotted along the road were memorials for the patriots who died defending their country against the Americans mercenaries. Arriving at the edge of the Caribbean Sea there was a break in the dense vegetation where we could access the water with its coral shoreline. The water was refreshing and immediately near the edge were striped yellow and black fish, blue neons and even a barracuda. Lots of other tourists were about: Italians, Russians and even the French.

Moving on we followed the coast road passing through agricultural areas where rice and sugar were planted. Occasionally on the road, farmers had spread rice to dry (there’s something to put you off the grain for a while). We even came across men shovelling the rice into white sacks which were then collected to sell. Notable amongst the farmer’s attire was the white gumboots. It seems gumboots are derigueur: horsemen, farmers, workers and pedestrians wear them. White seems popular but we have seen black (with spurs), cream (which could be dirty white) and camouflage.

Arriving in Cienfuegos we were presented with French influence in the architecture and layout of the town. Originally from Louisiana, the settlers of this place went for ornate buildings with pillars and rich decorations. Walking around the restored historic centre we hardily saw a soul. One of the must-sees is the Thomas Terry Theatre. This gentleman made a fortune buying disabled slaves, letting them breed and selling the children. From his vast wealth this theatre was built after his death and was at one time the best in the world. When we went to visit, there was a modern band having a sound check and we stayed to listen. The leader of the band came to chat with us and invited us to their concert that night. He also told us some of the proud and distinguished history of the place.

The concert was at 5pm so it was back to the hotel, a wee break and then another wander around before finding our seats in the theatre. Much to our surprise the concert was in both Spanish and English and the songs were many we knew: Beatles, Bee Gees, Elton John. The audience had a good time and there was a lots of dancing.

We finished the day with a Pina Colada from the bar and a light meal from the roof top garden restaurant.

Hotel: Melia San Carlos

Setting out from the hotel in the morning we made a short journey to Guanaroca in search of Flamingos and other water birds. A short walk through a natural reserve and we arrived at a small jetty jutting out into a lake. Rowing boats appeared and 3 by 3 we were gliding out across a shallow lake (40 cms) to find the flamingos. Bright pink birds waded in the water as if they were on parade. Just beautiful!

Back on shore we headed off to El Nicho, a series of waterfalls in a national park. The reserve was not far away but the road was so damaged that it took a while. Along the way were small hamlets, men on horses, oxen and people strolling along.

El Nicho was reached by a nature walk – a pleasure walking in the shade as the day got hotter. Water constantly pours from the hills and is chilly; we could have gone swimming but not today.

Back along the rutted road we passed roaming sows and piglets and bright flowers. Finally we were on the main road which was in a better state, and it was zoom zoom to Trinidad. Established in 1544 by the Spanish, this town has grown around its historic centre. Today this centre has the original cobbled streets, churches and houses that were built here. Walls are painted lots of different pastel shades with iron railings, decorative balconies and fine detail.

We arrived at the hotel in good time to catch the sunset from our hotel room’s balcony. The hotel is high above Trinidad’s old town so we could see past the buildings to the distant sea.

A late start to the day as it was Sunday and we felt like taking it easy today. Trinidad is known for its pottery so of course we needed to visit a pottery shop and see what was on offer.

Time to walk in the historic pedestrain area and visit the main church and significant buildings nearby. We decided to visit the Romantic Museum which was the house of a wealthy family and still furnished with their expensive furniture and fittings. Marvellous.

Our morning walk finished with ice cream and then a trip out to the Caribbean Sea, 15 kilometres away. Here we found turquoise sea, white sands and deck chairs. A swim in the refreshing water and a rest in the sun to dry off; one would think we were on holiday.

Siesta time and then we walked down the hill and across the pedestrian streets to the other side of the town. Dinner was at the highly recommended Munoz Tapas. This restaurant lived up to its reputation with great food and drink at reasonable prices and pleasant serving staff.

Back on track with the itinerary we were off to Sancti Spiritus via the Sugar Plantation area. A short detour to Ingenio San Isidro de Los Destiladeros.

This plantation was once the sugar cane processing plant of one family; most of the buildings have gone, however in the restored main house is an excellent museum of how the sugar was refined, the story of slavery and some of the artifacts found. I didn’t really know how I felt about being in this atmospheric place, appalled at the awful history and ashamed that I knew so little about the background to that everyday product, sugar, we take for granted.

Back on the main road we went on to the more touristy Manaca Iznaga with its tall tower, the symbol of Trinidad. Stalls lined the street from the carpark to the main house to the tower and western tourists were everywhere. There was a demonstration of how the sugar cane was crushed and a taste of the first liquid sugar drink with optional rum. Tasty. This place was even more upsetting as the story of the slaves and the owner’s inhumanity was lost in the business of selling stuff to the walking wallets.

On to Sancti Spiritus, another town founded by the Spanish 500 hundred years ago. They built these towns inland to avoid being plundered by pirates. This sleepy town has many restored buildings and some surprising stories. Coffee was needed and a pleasant, cool place was found.

The church is said to be one of the oldest in Cuba and unlike most towns it didn’t sit in the main square but to the side and just suddenly appeared. One minute you are in the street and the next you are in the main body of the church. It was very simple inside with a notable statue of a seated Christ.

We returned to Trinidad and had time to visit a Casa Particular. I guess we would class these as B&Bs and are where a family set aside rooms for paying guests. They vary in size and facilities. I like the idea of staying with a local family and enjoying genuine Cuban hospitality. In this case we met a delightful woman called Anna and she made us coffee while I looked around. Very pleasant with rooms around a central courtyard; tables and chairs were arranged under a mango tree so it was cool and refreshing in the shade. The coffee was excellent and rooms all came with en suites – what more does a traveller need?

Today we were heading back to Havana via Santa Clara. Thankfully we were the central road which is better maintained than the back roads. In Santa Clara are two main sites: the place where Che Guevara sabotaged an armed train and helped Cuba to freedom and Che Guevara Museum and Mausoleum.

High on a high topped by a powerful statue of Che is the final resting place of Che Guevara and a memorial to the Cuban revolution.

A quick coffee stop and we were off to Havana. Surprising the temperature dropped and the sky turned grey – cold weather from the USA is on its way.

Dinner tonight at was Angel Cafe which was just around the corner from our hotel. Set in the corner of a quiet courtyard in front of an old church this cafe was a delight. Yummy food at reasonable price. Recommend the dessert.

The weather suddenly turned cold due to storms on the east coast of USA. We went from a tropical feeling to needing cardigans and jackets. There was some local business we needed to attend to then we set off for a last walk through Cuba along the Malecon. We revisited some of the lovelier streets we had found in the Old Town and attempted to find a museum we both wanted to visit. Sadly, the museum was closed as it was preparing for a new exhibit so we wandered about and then back to the hotel. We are going to miss the colourful life of Cuba with music pouring out of restaurants and the unexpected around the corner.

Tonight we were had booked the Tropicana Show, one of those bright and sparkly productions with very tall people wearing very few clothes. When we entered the show I had that instant feel I was in a Los Vegas Casino – waiters with bow ties and lots of dressy, perfumed clients. Our table was right next to the stage and we were joined by folk from Germany, Sardinia and unknown. Rum arrived and the dancing and singing was in front, to the side and behind us. Imagine 6 foot Cuban Barbies with palm trees head dresses and you have the picture.

Leaving Cuba was far more stressful than entering it, mainly because of the many people passing through limited control points. Checking on locals appeared to be strict and the queues backed up from Passport Control to Security. Once pass that it was easy.

Arriving into Panama was straightforward until we got to Customs where everyone’s luggage was X-rayed and checked. Past that and we were shocked by the high risers, smooth roads, supermarkets and huge billboards – it seemed so long since we had part of the modern world. Thankfully it was a quick trip to the hotel, easy check-in and a free afternoon ahead of us.

After a wee break we headed out into the warm, humid Panama weather to find out our way to the renovated sea front. This beautiful area has pedestrian paths and cycle ways set with trees and gardens alongside the Pacific Ocean.

After some exercise we returned to the hotel finding a great Italian restaurant, Ciao Bella, close by and an excellent food market for fresh product: Foodie. Oh the joy of supermarket/grocery store shopping – there’s just so much variety and so easy.

After an amazing breakfast: lots of fresh fruit, multiple cereals choices, fresh eggs and meats, juices, breads and lots of spreads, we were ready for Panama City. Our guide, Larissa Martinez, was a cheerful woman who seemed to know everyone. First stop was Casco Vejo, the oldest Spanish settlement of Panama City. This place is now in ruins as Captain Henry Morgan attacked it and rather than be let him ransack the place the town was set a light. The town than moved further along the coast to the South. There was a modern and informative museum on site and as our guide used to work there we had an great walk around.

Back in the transport we went to the newer old town and found a restored, charming ensemble of buildings which are now used as hotels, souvenir shops and museums. Lunch was here inside with air conditioning – bless the people who invented air conditioning.

Lunch over we drove down to the first locks on the Panama Canal, Miraflores. Today we viewed the canal from land, tomorrow we float on it. The Miraflores Visitors Centre included a IMAX film of the how the canal came about and the engineering behind its construction. Truly an engineering feat. I had no idea that the canal has been expanded in more recent times with an extra channel to accommodate larger container vessels and huge cruise liners. There was a cruise liner passing though the old canal when we were at the Visitor Centre, it only took 10 minutes to fill the lock – impressive!

After our busy day it was definitely time to get back to the hotel however being Friday late afternoon we got struck in traffic. There were even a few orange cones about to make us Aucklanders feel at home.

A very early start this morning as our transfer to the dock was at 5.30am. Driving out along the causeway we were 15 kilometers from the American Bridge and in the channel were lots of ships waiting their turn to pass through the canal. Its takes about 8 to 10 hours to sail from the Pacific to the Atlantic through the canal and we had elected to travel half way – from Panama City to Gatun passing through the locks at Miraflores and Pedro Miguel.

Our driver was there waiting at Gatun after four hours on the passenger boat – so nice to see him. It takes 45 mins to cross Panama by train, 90 mins by road and 8-10 hours by boat. Approximately 40 ships pass through the canal each day with the fee of 300,000 – 1.3m US Dollars for the container ships and cruise ships. It is quite the experience!

Back at the hotel it was break time before our expedition back to the new old town.

Well, the expedition turned into more like a mission. First, we asked about taxis to the old town and were told US $20 plus for a 6 km ride. I had found a local bus and according to Google it was free – so being the intrepid “You’ll be right, kiwis” that we are, we took the 5 min walk (google was right here) to the local bus stop, Also being the “Cautious until proven otherwise, kiwis” I asked a young woman also queuing what the cost of the bus ticket was. 25 cents but you needed the local bus card, no cash. Disaster. This kind young woman then said “No worries”, a common explanation here she would pay for us on her card. On the bus we got but not the bus I had googled. All was going well until the bus went right when we needed to go left. Our local angel reassured us and said when she got off we also need to get off. Okay. At Via Argentina she said was a train station and we could get the local bus card. We duly arrived and the train station was actually a metro station and down, down in the bowels of Panama City we went. I would just like to say at this point in the story we were the only obvious tourists on the bus and metro.

Our kind friend helped us buy a transport card and put $2 on it. She then pointed us in the direction of the metro we needed to take and disappeared. Down further we went and waited for the train. I did another Google search and discovered a station closer to the old town, 5 de Mayo, things were looking better. A quick efficient ride and it was up, up and up into the bright sunshine and into a completely different Panama City. Here the pavements were full of pedestrians, fruit stalls, crumbling buildings, constant traffic hooting their horns and no shiny modern signs.

Gathering ourselves together I found the street we needed to be on and off we went. Whew! we did arrive at the old town with its welcome shade and quieter streets.

Had a nice wander around, a coffee and then walked back to the hotel. walking being a lot less stressful than navigating the local transport system. Anyone want a Panama transport card, careful lady owner, used once?

A quick trip across to San Jose, Costa Rica and just like that we found ourselves in a huge hall surrounded by Americans in snake lines to Passport Control. Our plane happened to arrive at the same time as 6 flights from USA. Getting through Passport Control was very quick and we were out into the heat and humidity.

The transfer man arrived and we were off to La Fortuna, some three hours away. Travelling in Costa Rica can vary with the road surface; the road to La Fortuna was a main road and sometimes it was smooth and sealed and other times patchy with a choice of pot holes.

La Fortuna is a town centered around a dormant volcano and extreme sports. The countryside on the way passed through small hamlets, pastural lands and some forest. It was a relief to arrive at the hotel and have a place to rest.

First stop this morning was Arenal Vida Campesina, an organic farm with a garden full of fresh delights. We tasted our way around the vegetable beds stopped to spot sloths in the trees or unusual birds coming to eat from the fruit trees and flowers.

A bit of activity was needed as we tried our hand at extracting sugar juice from raw cane. The juice is greenish in colour and of course tastes sweet; its even better with rum. Next we made Tortillas by hand, baked them on the grill and added produce from the farm for our lunch.

It was back to the hotel for some down time and change of clothes for our walk on Arenal Volcano. Pepe, our guide turned out to be rather peppy with a great sense of humour. Part of our group were couples from Spain, Slovenia, Sweden, England and of course New Zealand.

The walk started at the visitors centre and circles up through the regenerated forest, through lava fields and up onto a small plateau. The volcano was very shy today and was hidden by cloud. Pepe was extremely informative and kept us moving along to get good viewing places.

Arriving back at the car park we had a short break before heading off to the Hot Springs. I was expecting something like Rotorua and we got something without the smell, tepid water and a great buffet dinner.

To get to Monteverde we had to cross Lake Arenal. This piece of water is dammed and is the largest lake in Costa Rice. Once again the transportation arrived on time, tidy with a pleasant drive. The road to the ferry was straight forward (thank heavens) and the small ferries waiting at the short pier looked serviceable if basic. Across the green water we went hugging the shoreline with views to the hills and clouds.

On the other side an even shorter pier waited for us and the vans were almost in the water as they lined up to collect their passengers. I would rather not remember the road to Monteverde, the distance was not far however the road surface was very pitted.

The drive took longer than expected and we arrived with no time to check-in, just enough for a comfort stop and then we were away to the Cloud Forest. Somehow I haven’t read the memo about the hanging bridges so when I saw the first one I just knew I had to be brave. Hanging bridges cross valleys and so travel at the height of the tree canopy; this height gives them an amazing opportunity to see the plants, wildlife and birds in the tree tops.

Surprising enough a single tall tree can be host to 200 other plants and we found trees growing on the top of trees. My favourite were the colourful flowers crowning the very top of the trees.

Up there in the clouds were monkeys, spiders, vipers, flowers, trees, vines and many ferns. One strange tree was very much like our Punga but it had nasty thorns – I’ll stick with our version.

Overjoyed to finally get to our hotel room we found we had huge space with a tremendous view across the landscape to the Pacific Ocean. Sun was setting as we had a delicious meal in the hotel restaurant.

We started early as we had a two hour walk in the Rain Forest before lunch. Last night it bucketed down; it wasn’t cold just very wet. This National Reserve has seven main tracks in amongst the trees, streams and slopes of the mountains. Our guide, Henry had been in this forest all his life and was one of those clever people who can spot a bird when the rest of us are standing looking lost. (The gumboots have reappeared as standard footwear for all the guides in this area.)

Henry trudging along carrying a tripod with high powered telescope and he would patiently set this up so we could see the birds clearly and in detail. Well, birds, lizards looking like sticks down the truck of trees, tarantula, wild pig, fungi, bats and of course trees, orchids and other flowers.

Our last stop was the Humming Birds feeding stations and I was delighted to see the rare purple hummingbird. Coffee was very appreciated after the intermittent rain.

Lunch and then a transfer to San Jose. This time the road first went along the Great Divide which runs from North America through Costa Rica and to South America; on one side is the Pacific Ocean and on the other the Caribbean. Coming down to the west we joined the Pan-Pacific Highway. It was definitely zoom, zoom to San Jose – thankfully we did know the way to San Jose.

And that was it, a hotel near the airport so we can catch our flight home, first to Panama, then Santiago and finally Auckland.