Malawi & Zambia 2025 | July/August 2025

We knew it was going to be a long day (and night and day) and to comfort myself I was calculating how long it would have taken me in the 18th century to travel by sea, horse and foot to get from NZ to South Africa – 32 days by Sea | Auckland to Cape Town | and then another 14 days | Cape Town to Johannesburg | all up maybe 2 months.

We transited through Dubai and it was a wonderful to arrive in Johannesburg and know the long haul was over. The moment we arrived I was waiting for the singing – and there it was; as people were greeted by their loved ones.

Sadly our bags were not there to meet us so it was off to the Lost Luggage office and after two hours we were reunited with our clothes. As we wandered the airport another group of singers appeared, I think they were a church choir; they were walking through the halls cheering weary passengers with their uplifting voices – magical to a tired Mrs Page. Happy days, Hot shower and lie down made a new woman of me.

Woke to a cloudy day and that wonderful sense of excitement when you know there is an adventure ahead. Today was going to be a smooth day and it started well – great breakfast at the City Lodge and a quick trot over the Departures ( barely a 6 minutes walk). Check-in was easy and we were on through to Departures. I found an image of Nelson Mandala, zebras without bodies and lots of souvenirs.

Quick flight to Blantyre and we were there!! Malawi, one of the smaller African nations with huge potential. We walked across the tarmac to the Arrival Hall and were immediately aware we were in a less visited more rustic country, There were lots of Africans in the airport but most were in groups and I wasn’t too sure who was who. Anyway we got pass the rickety old furniture and relaxed procedure, found our bags and found our guide.

The area outside the airport building was crazy with loosely parked cars, red dust and many people. Thank goodness Christopher Lingokege was there to meet us as it was all colour and noise and chaos. It was also cold, 15c and wet. Christopher is a very calm man and he took care to welcome us to his country, present us with water bottles and wine. Next stop was an ATM; however there was no money in the machine so it as on to our rest place for the next few nights, Game Haven Lodge.

We had met a doctor in the departure area who lives and works in Blantyre, an American researcher into malaria and its pathogens. This delightful man had lots of tips about Malawi and obviously loved the place. He suggested Game Haven would be a soft entry to the wildlife; we shall see.

Our cottage was exactly that, a wee English cottage looking out over grasslands Dinner was delicious and it an early night for the exhausted Pages.

As planned we had a day to recover from the journey to Malawi. Not people to lie around all day we organised ourselves on to a game drive in the morning and a walk in the afternoon.

In Africa the tarseal quickly disappears and a rough track which only 4-wheel drives can use come into play… the driver called it the African massage as we bumped over stones and rocks, into pot holes and out again. Simon, our driver was a merry soul and made many jokes as we went in search of wildlife. The first animals were a herd of zebras (this time zebras with bodies) intermingled with Eland. Apparently, zebras are short sighted so the two co-exist to help each other.

It was surprising how close we could get to the animals here in Game Haven, no doubt due to the absence of any predators; the wandering animals were not fussed by the Land Rover or us.

As the morning progressed the clouds and rain faded and the warm African sun we had been expecting came to the forefront. Simon dropped us at the lodge where we enjoyed the fire and coffee before lunch. The waiter at lunch was amazed we only wanted one dish – he almost demanded we try all three courses – however one course was enough.

In the afternoon we walked around the park with another guide and this time we could get close to the grasses, butterflys, dragonflies, ants and trees – most enjoyable. Oddly enough we were tired after our long walk, so it was back to camp and time to research Dr David Livingstone (who visited Malawi on his last journey in search of the Nile source), the GDP of Malawi and some reading on the living situation of the majority of the population. Who knew Malawi is the 190th poorest country in the world with the average person only earning US$500 pa? I also discovered Livingstone wanted to find the source of the Nile so he would have the prestige to talk out against slavery.

One of the joys of travel is the interesting people you get to meet. This morning at breakfast we encountered an Australian who travels the world helping developing countries with water management and tree crops. He was in Malawi to help with Macadamia plantations, and we had an in-depth discussion about what he saw happening in Malawi and where he considered major improvements could be made.

Our new guide, Francis Tandwe arrived to replace Christopher who had a family emergency. Francis is a very happy man and we laughed all the way to Satemwa Estate where we were scheduled for some tea tasting. The Scottish Kaye family came in the late 1880s to plant tea; and today their brand ‘Satemwa’ produces tea all year round. The family home, Huntington House is now a boutique lodge and looks like a piece of England in Africa.

Tea tasting was many cups of tea from white, green, black to herbal, The one we liked the most was peach/black tea, yummy.

The afternoon was at leisure and we took ourselves off for a walk down to the lake and around back to our cottage.

Francis rocked up in the morning and we were off back to Blantrye and a few stops to see the historic church, the oldest colonial house and fill up on diesel.

The historic church was enormous and dedicated to Dr David Livingstone. It was a surreal moment entering a piece of Presbyterism in the heart of chaotic Blantyre. I was quite moved to think Livingstone had very likely walked this area when it was a small village.

The oldest colonial house belonged to the Moir brothers and was a trading house, bank and home until its present reincarnation as a gift shop. Nice souvenirs from a variety of local artists.

Back on the road it was Starlink to grab internet access and Mandy DJ curated the music all the way to Majete.

Majete is a reserve area with an incredible story of successful animal and habitat conservation, Two decades ago African Parks took over the barren and decimated park and today it is full of abundant wild-life: elephant, lion, hippo, rhino, buffalo, antelope, giraffe, wild dog and so much more, It very heart warming to know our tourist dollars are going directly towards the continued conservation work and to the local communities around the park. The first thing African Parks did was to erect an electric fence around the 700 sq hectares to keep the poachers out and the animals safe.

3.30pm we were off on a land cruiser for a game drive which included a drink by the river as the sun went down. Magical. We could hear the hippos in the nearby river and the birds settling for the night. On our drive we saw elephant, antelope, water buck, heard hippos and got a glimpse of lion.

Up at 5am I was out looking for animals by 5.30am. My driver Henry was a marvel as he found tracks of hippo, rhino, leopard and lion – I doubt I have looked at as many marks in the dust nor poo ever in my life; we found lots.

The best sighting was a serval (a wild cat); this beauty stood in amongst the trees with its beautiful markings before it bounded away – even Henry said he had seldom seen these shy creatures. Majete is full of life, and I didn’t mind not having a ‘zoo’ experience, It was enough to be in the natural habitat and know the animals were thriving and reproducing in impressive numbers (Majete has been so successful that some family groups have been moved to other depopulated parks to help their animals recover from over poaching and declining numbers).

Back at the tent it was time to have breakfast and watch the impala drinking at the waterhole a few meters away. Then we were transferred across the park to another lodge; this one by the Shire River, so we could compare the two.

Leaving Majete was bitter sweet as we had had such a great time there and yet there was more to see. Driving back to Blantyre we then took another road to head north east heading towards Lake Malawi and the Zomba Plateau.

Basically Lake Malawi is part of the African Rift and the Shire River is its outlet. Zomba Plateau is also part of the Rift and sits high in its cloud forest with amazing views across the vast valley. Our destination for the night was an eco-lodge where there was no electricity and total reliance on solar power.

We have gotten used to the poor state of the roads and while places are only a few hundred kilometres apart, the roads slow travel down. We passed through busy villages with their local markets spilling onto the road and many people milling around. Babies on mother’s back and many people without shoes. The most impressive sights was the folk carrying stacks of wood on their heads; even children could carry more than I could lift.

Petal and Tom were our hosts for the night and we were rewarded for a bumpy road with a stunning sunset and views across the valley.

The plan today was to travel around the mountain by car, grab our walking guide Fraser and hike in a huge circle across a dam, up a hillside, across the ridgeline, down to some waterfalls and back to the car. This whole hike took us about 4 hours with lunch by the river. The guides told us they were impressed with our fitness given our age (now that’s a depressing statement) and we were pleased we made it up the steep hill and back down again. People in Malawi are very used to walking long distances as that is their usual mode of transport. Sometimes in villages they have bicycle taxis and in towns motorbike taxis. In larger towns they have vans stuffed full with people and somehow it all seems to work.

Back at Zomba Forest Lodge we had an international dinner party with other guests; who were from the Netherlands, South Africa, France, England, Malawi and of course New Zealand.

Coming down the mountain we stopped in Zomba township to look at the local market. Zomba used to be the capital until recently so it has a number of important institutions: hospital, prison, university, army, government buildings and high court. Outside of Zomba the road was sealed; however the potholes continued.

On the way we stopped at the largest tree I have ever seen; it covered 1 hectare, a spreading fig tree.

Arriving at Liwonde we took a boat to the camp and just like that we left the noise and chaos behind and were in nature once again. This tented camp has no fence and directly outside our tent is a lagoon with hippos sunning themselves on the bank. Stay posted for what its like here after sunset.

Our beautiful tent (with balcony and bathroom) faces east and is 3m away from the lagoon. In the murky waters, hippos feed and crocodiles, like stealth killing machines swim past. As the camp has no fence animals can wander in and around the tents and buildings. This morning as we collected others for a game drive, a family of elephants were just outside their door. Wow!!

The sun was rising as we came across another elephant family with their small babies and older juveniles – too cute for words. Here in Liwonde the animals include lion, leopard, cheetah, hippo, rhino, hyena, warthog, water buffalo and the usual herds of impala, kudu and eland. The landscape varies from thickets and open spaces to baobabs and chestnut trees. The open spaces make it easier for the predators to hunt their prey and as we bumped along we found the animals moving from left to right as they were chased towards the open area near the river. We did come across a recent kill with the buzzards cleaning up the carcass.

A break for breakfast and some down time before lunch and another game drive in the afternoon. This time we were in earnest hunt for lions and travelled along way south within the reserve – sadly no lions to be found. Sundowners on the riverbank and then back through the dark to the lodge. A wonderful day.

It is very peaceful waking up to an African dawn – first the birds start their songs, then the smaller mammals move amongst the trees and finally the larger creatures move to the waterholes. Our balcony faces due east and the sun rises across the lagoon and into the tall palms. Monkeys like our banister and so they come to sit on the beam and watch the sun rise.

Today we chose not to do an early morning game drive and have a more leisurely beginning to the day. After breakfast we just enjoyed our tent and watching the hippos swim in the water with the occasional submerge. The giant crocodile who also likes this lagoon has not been visible, but I am sure he is around somewhere.

After lunch we had a game cruise – this was one of the best experiences we have had in Malawi, with the late afternoon bringing game to the river’s edge. Our first encounter was with this huge crocodile and I thought he was sleeping until he launched himself into the water a mere 3m away from us. Further down the river we saw lots of birds including flocks flying across the vast sky. There were also many groups of hippos – they didn’t seem to like the boat engine so all would sink below the water. However, if we stopped the hippos would come closer and be curious about us.

Today’s group of elephants included a very small elephant and it’s easy to spot the caring mother and aunts as they make sure the little ones are safe.

As the sun set we stopped for the usual sundowner and our young bird expert poured a generous gin – so we were very relaxed when we got back to the lodge. I can see why people fall in love with Africa.

It was another beautiful sunrise at Mvuu Lodge followed by a relaxed breakfast. Our lovely guide, Francis was waiting for us at the boat jetty with that huge smile of his. He has such a happy spirit it makes it very easy travelling through Malawi, observing the village life and hearing how the locals live. Francis is Chewa (the official language of Malawi is also Chewa) and here in Liwonde the people are Yao. Its the Yao people who follow the Islamic faith and also hold onto old customs including coming-of-age initiations for boys and girls.

The dry, dusty villages centred around communal water pumps and kilns for drying the clay bricks used in construction. The houses were very simple with a bedroom and sitting room; kitchens and toilets are outside and separate.

Music made the time pass quickly and then there we were at Lake Malawi and the Makokola Retreat. Immediately entering the security gate we were in a different world. Bright Bougainvillea lined the road, the landscaping was lush and green and the beach edging the lake sandy and clean – a culture shift indeed.

It’s also very peaceful here, especially as our unit is in the Adult Only area – we even have our own pool. The manager met us after breakfast to show us their nursery, vegetable garden and fruit trees. This area was much larger than we were expecting and an impressive operation considering everything is grown organically. Past the nursery was the best golf course in Malawi; there is a resident crocodile in the water hazard.

We had a longish drive to Lilongwe but the time passed quickly as we played music, played games and enjoyed snacks.

When we arrived at Lilongwe we found we had been upgraded – and as the locals kept telling us ” Madonna stays here when she is in Malawai” and very nice it was too.

The rest of the day was at leisure until a delightful dinner at a local Mexican restaurant.

It was a long day as we travelled to the border crossing to Zambia and then to Flatdogs Camp in the South Luangwa National Park. There were a few noticeable changes as we crossed the border from one of the world’s poorest countries into its richer neighbour. One of the changes was the better state of the roads and the paint on the shops.

Arriving at Flatdogs we were greeted by wide African smiles and a warm reception. We had arrived in time for the afternoon/evening game drive and what an experience that turned out to be! We finally got to see lions up close and personal – thank goodness they were exhausted from eating a water buffalo.

We went on to find a beautiful mother leopard and were fortunate enough to see her groom and nurse her cub. Other highlights were hyenas and walking hippos.

The sun went down and a blood moon rose – a magical evening.

This was our first experience on this trip to be in an unfenced tented camp. Unfenced means the wild animals wander through the camp as and when they want. This morning out watchman was concerned about a lion nearby. (The watchman picks up from our tent and walks with us to the main area.)

Malama was our driver/guide and we hit the jackpot with this excellent guide. Also in our vehicle were two delightful Australians and two charming Swedes – in all a very happy crew as we went on our drives.

South Luangwa has prolific animal life – in one drive we saw giraffe, elephant, crocodile, hippo, hyena, zebra, eland, water buck, warthog and so much more.

The highlight for me was watching the elephants cross the river and climb up the river bank.

There is water in the park with the river and waterholes; however they tell us the rains were not heavy this year and as the summer comes the river will probably dry up so much you could jump across it – not good for the animals.

Malama offered us a walking safari in the early morning. This was a tremendous experience as we crossed grassland, wooded areas, dead lands, thickets and finally reached the river. The most exciting moment was a hippo which suddenly appeared out of the thickets and ran in front of us heading towards the waterhole. Thankfully he didn’t change course towards us.

Late morning we went into Mfuwe to visit some of the local projects. There was jewelry made from poachers wire traps – a beautiful product range, an imitative to keep young girls in school and a fabric designer. All these projects were to support the local women as they are the breadwinners and need a reliable and sustainable source of income.

That night we went leopard hunting and just incredible! Found a female lying in the sun and after sunset a male on the prowl.

A bit of a lay in as we were due to transfer to another lodge which is further north inside the National Park. The first thing to get the heart pumping was a herd of elephants in camp. There we were trotting along the path when Jumbo appeared – this elephants the best plan is to stand still and then slowly walk away whilst facing them. Whew – got past them and to the main area.

We were transferred across the park which was a game drive in itself with so many animals out and about this morning.

Arrived at luxurious Chikunto Lodge and the first treat is a complimentary foot massage. The second treat was the delicious food prepared by their in-house chef. Three courses for lunch and each as wonderful to look at as they were to eat.

Late afternoon we were on a game drive with our local guide Manny and two Americans. Lots of animals including wild dogs. Sundowners was on the river bank where we noticed a buffalo herd below on the river flat and one lone member stranded on the river bank near us. Next minute lions came out of the bushes near us and were heading off towards our lone buffalo. We all jumped into the jeep and Manny was off to locate the lions. Arriving at the kill site we saw the lions take down the buffalo and its vain attempts to defend itself. I am talking about a mere 10m in front of us. Very graphic and nothing like the Lion King. As we watched a rustling sound grew in volume and the buffalo herd also arrived on the scene. Too late to help their fellow buffalo and one look at the blood-lust in those lions’ eyes and the herd turned tail and fled.

As Manny explained this was the circle of life and the lions need to feed every 3-4 days. As a family member is apt to say “Stay with the herd, you’re safe there.”

This morning’s drive was almost a direct line to the site of the kill. Overnight another lion pride had chased our first lions away. This pride were belly full, in a food coma lying around the carcass. Taking turns each lion was having its fill of what was left of the buffalo. By now news of the kill had got around and several more jeeps turned up. Some of lions woke up and decided that our jeep looked fine so they moved within 3m of us and flopped down again. Incredible.

Last few stops on our drive included visiting a famous leopardess, the wild dogs and passing herds of elephants, giraffe, eland and the occasional warthog.