Walking in Ireland | August/September 2025

And we’re off… Dubai here we come!

Our fabulous crew hit the ground running; quite literally, despite the blistering 50°C heat and a 16-hour flight behind us. With spirits high and sunblock slathered, we clocked up a gallant 8km on foot, exploring the dazzling heart of Dubai.

We hopped on the metro and made our way to the iconic Dubai Mall. From luxury storefronts to the towering aquarium, we soaked in the spectacle before detouring to the Museum of the Future; a sleek, immersive glimpse into what’s next for humanity. A definite thumbs-up from the group.

Sadly, a few of us had to skip the Burj Khalifa’s top viewing deck; the ticket price was a bit steep for three or four who would’ve loved the experience. But no shortage of awe from ground level!

Dinner back at the hotel was light and relaxed for most, with early bedtimes around 7:30pm. Meanwhile, four audacious ladies ventured out and indulged in a most unusual and memorable meal; camel and other regional delicacies. A bold culinary start to what promises to be a spectacular journey!

We bid farewell to Dubai’s futuristic glamour and set our sights on Dublin; where cobbled streets, literary legends and live music await. From the heat of the desert to the heart of Ireland, it’s a change of pace and palette, and we’re ready to trade skyscrapers for storytelling and spice for stout.

With laughter echoing through the cobbled streets and curiosity leading the way, our walking group set off from the hotel for a leisurely 45-minute amble to St Stephen’s Green. Along the way, tales were traded, trivia shared and more than a few hidden gems spotted. We hopped aboard the city’s iconic Hop-On Hop-Off buses, winding through Dublin’s historic heart; stopping to marvel at the Trinity College Library and the legendary Book of Kells Exhibition.

A highlight for many was the National Museum of Ireland; Archaeology, where the “Kingship and Sacrifice” exhibition offered a haunting glimpse into Iron Age rituals. The preserved bog bodies; Old Croghan Man, Gallagh Man, Baronstown West Man and Clonycavan Man, left us in quiet awe.

The evening wrapped up in true Irish style: dinner and live music at our Castle Hotel. And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, the restaurant team surprised our birthday boy Gary (a sprightly 87!) with cake and a rousing chorus of “Happy Birthday.” A sweet ending to a day full of wonder.

With Dublin in our rearview, we ventured south into the lush folds of County Wicklow, our first stop, the storied valley of Glendalough. Known as the “Valley of Two Lakes,” this serene haven welcomed us with its 6th-century monastic ruins, weathered stone churches and echoes of ancient devotion nestled among the hills.

Our trail led upward to the Poulanass Waterfall; a short but spirited climb. Its name, drawn from the Irish Poll an Eas, translates to “hole of the waterfall,” and the cascade did not disappoint. From there, we descended through peaceful woodlands to the site of St Kevin’s cell, rewarded with sweeping views across the Glendalough Valley.

By afternoon, we arrived in Kilkenny, where the imposing silhouette of Kilkenny Castle greeted us. Built in the early 13th century, this Anglo-Norman stronghold served as the seat of the influential Butler family for nearly six centuries. The town itself charmed us with its riverside setting and medieval streets.

We capped off the day with a gentle stroll through the village, a well-earned aperitif by the River Nore, and a light supper at our hotel, resting up for whatever Irish magic tomorrow might bring.

We set off for Ireland’s southwest, pausing in County Tipperary to visit the majestic Rock of Cashel. Towering above the rolling green hills, this 12th-century fortress once housed the Kings of Munster and still reigns over the landscape with quiet authority.

From there, we continued to Killarney for a three-hour stop steeped in Victorian elegance. Muckross House, nestled beside the lake, welcomed us with manicured gardens and a tranquil lakeside path. Our gentle walk along Muckross Lake offered stunning views of the Lakes of Killarney and the dramatic MacGillycuddy Reeks mountain range.

The trail led us to Muckross Abbey, a hauntingly beautiful ruin with a turbulent past. Raided and rebuilt over centuries, the abbey bears the scars of Cromwellian persecution and medieval unrest. Today, its roofless halls and preserved stairways invite quiet reflection. At its heart lies a striking courtyard, home to a centuries-old yew tree encircled by a vaulted cloister—an unforgettable sight.

We rounded off the day with a hearty dose of Irish craic—live music, local fare, and laughter echoing through the colourful streets of Killarney. A perfect end to a day rich in history, nature, and good company.

This morning, we set out along Ireland’s longest and most scenic tourist route – the Wild Atlantic Way, heading west toward the rugged beauty of the Dingle Peninsula.

Our first stop: Inch Beach. With the wind in our hair and waves rolling in, we took a bracing walk along the shoreline, soaking in the moody charm of this vast stretch of sand.

The drive that followed was pure drama; craggy cliffs, crashing surf and one unexpected rescue. Spotting a sheep ‘cast’ on its back, our fearless guide Phillip leapt a stone wall and gently rolled it upright, earning cheers from our delighted crew. A true Irish hero moment!

Next, we arrived at The Great Blasket (An Blascaod Mór), the largest of the Blasket Islands off County Kerry. Once home to a hardy community of Irish-speaking fishermen, the island was abandoned in 1953, but its legacy lives on through a remarkable literary tradition. No other island has produced such a wealth of Irish-language writers. Our group was captivated by the stories of resilience and creativity that shaped this remote outpost.

A brief pause in Annascaul followed, a charming village known as the birthplace of Antarctic explorer Tom Crean, an unsung hero whose legacy still echoes through the peninsula.

We rounded off the day with a detour to Reask, a haunting early monastic site just east of Baile an Fheirtéaraigh. Amid low stone walls and ancient ruins, a solitary cross-slab standing stone marked the centre of the compound, a quiet, powerful reminder of Ireland’s spiritual past.

From windswept beaches to literary islands and heroic sheep rescues, it was a day full of stories, scenery, and soul.

This morning, we bid farewell to the lush landscapes of County Kerry and made our way by ferry, north into County Clare, crossing Ireland’s longest river, the mighty Shannon. The gentle crossing offered a moment of calm before the wild beauty ahead.

Our destination? The legendary Cliffs of Moher, where sheer rock faces rise dramatically above the crashing waves of the Atlantic. Nestled within the Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark, this iconic site offers 800 metres of winding pathways and panoramic viewing platforms that frame nature at its most awe-inspiring.

Just as we arrived, the skies decided to put on a show of their own Unseasonably wild weather swept in, turning our visit into a true test of waterproof layers and adventurous spirit. Rain lashed, winds howled and yet, the drama only added to the magic. The Cliffs of Moher loomed through the mist, majestic and moody, a haunting reminder that Ireland’s untamed beauty is never just for fair-weather wanderers.

This morning, we took a short drive to the village of Doolin, to board our 50-minute ferry ride out to the largest of the three Aran Islands, Inishmore.  Wow!!  We encountered wild choppy, turbulent seas.  Hats off to our walkers, who braved the 50-minute ride with steady legs and good humour.  

Once ashore, we set off on a 4-kilometre hike toward Dun Duchathair, the Black Fort, perched on the edge of the Atlantic. The headwinds were fierce, but so was the reward. Whether drawn by the fort’s archaeological intrigue or simply seeking a rugged walk, what’s undeniable is the raw beauty of this place. Jagged cliffs, sweeping ocean vistas and the rhythmic roar of waves, here, the Atlantic doesn’t just speak, it sings. And in that elemental chorus, something stirs. You feel it in your bones: a reminder of what it means to be fully alive. But hold on tight, those winds don’t mess around.

We enjoyed lunch tucked up against the ancient rocks. 

Later, we wandered through the wee village of Kilronan, where Irish coffee, Guinness and warm tea at Joe Wattys pub offered a welcome taste of local hospitality.

A slightly calmer ferry ride back to Doolin, and then a brief drive back to Lahinch for a well-earned supper and early night.

Our journey continued with a scenic drive to the charming seaside village of Ballyvaughan, but not before a memorable stop at the mystical Poulnabrone Dolmen. This ancient portal tomb, standing proudly in the heart of the Burren, is one of Ireland’s most iconic archaeological treasures; second only to the Cliffs of Moher in visitor numbers, and every bit as captivating.

From there, we meandered through quiet country roads, winding laneways and lush green pastures. The Burren unfolded around us in all its rugged beauty, with sweeping views of Galway Bay glimmering just beyond our footsteps, a moment of pure serenity.

Lunch was enjoyed near the famous Aillwee Cave, a geological wonder and one of the Burren’s best-known ancient sites. After lunch, we made our way to Galway, where our hotel welcomed us with open arms; and deep bathtubs in every room, much to everyone’s delight after a day of walking and exploring!

We began our day with a relaxed wander along the shores of Galway Bay, soaking in the morning light and coastal calm. From there, we set off toward Donegal, winding our way through the scenic stretches of County Sligo.

One of the day’s most moving moments came in Drumcliff, where we paused to pay tribute to the great poet William Butler Yeats. His final resting place lies in the quiet churchyard of St Columba’s, nestled beneath the dramatic silhouette of Benbulben mountain, a setting as lyrical as his verse.

As we entered Donegal, the landscape shifted into something truly spectacular. Towering mountains, rugged sea cliffs and over 1,100km of wild coastline welcomed us with open arms. It’s no wonder Lonely Planet named Donegal one of the world’s top regions to visit in 2024, this place is pure magic.

That evening, we celebrated a special birthday among our walking group; cheers to Colin!

We’ll be calling Donegal home for the next three nights, with its rich heritage, vibrant culture and endless scenic trails waiting to be explored!

After a scenic hour’s drive through the rugged heart of County Donegal, we arrived at Glenveagh National Park, an emerald haven tucked into the Derryveagh Mountains. Our morning walk led us along the tranquil shores of Lough Veagh, where the water mirrored the moody skies and the wild hills rolled endlessly beyond.

Nestled beside the lake is Glenveagh Castle, a romantic stone fortress perched on a promontory with views that could stop you in your tracks. It’s hard to imagine a more poetic setting, especially when you learn about the woman behind its gardens.

Lady Cornelia Adair, an American heiress with a generous spirit and a keen eye for beauty, took over the estate after her husband, John George Adair, passed away in 1885. She poured her heart into the gardens, creating a lush sanctuary that still enchants visitors today. Her legacy of kindness and stewardship is woven into the very soil of Glenveagh.

The castle itself has had quite a journey, from its 19th-century origins under John Adair, to its final private owner, Henry McIlhenny, who gifted it to the Irish state in 1983. Thanks to him, the castle and its gardens are now open to all, a treasure preserved for generations.

After wandering through Glenveagh’s peaceful paths and uncovering its layered history, we wrapped up the day with a hearty dinner and an early night.

There’s something about piling into a van with an excited crew, the windows down, laughter bouncing off the seats and the promise of wild Atlantic views ahead. That was us; buzzing with anticipation as we drove an hour out to Slieve League (Sliabh Liag), one of Ireland’s best-kept secrets tucked away in County Donegal.

These cliffs aren’t just tall, they’re epic. Towering nearly 601 meters above the Atlantic, Slieve League is almost three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, and yet somehow still feels like a hidden gem. The landscape is steeped in early Christian heritage, with ancient monastic ruins whispering stories to the wind. And for the brave-hearted, there’s “One Man’s Path”, a narrow ridge trail that dares hikers to dance with the edge.

We were wisely advised to skip that particular thrill, but most of our group eagerly set off uphill toward their chosen vantage points. The reward? Sweeping views of Donegal Bay that made every step worth it. A few of us, feeling extra adventurous, continued on to the cone-shaped stones, an 8-kilometre round trip that tested our legs and sharpened our focus, thanks to the Atlantic winds that seemed determined to keep us humble.

At the summit, the panorama was nothing short of cinematic. To the west, the Atlantic stretched endlessly. To the south, Donegal Bay shimmered. And on a clear day (which we were lucky enough to catch), we spotted the neighboring counties of Leitrim, Sligo and Mayo. Rathlin O’Byrne Island and Glencolmcille peeked out to the northwest, adding to the sense that we were standing on the edge of something ancient and vast.

The descent was filled with cheerful chatter and shared awe, and what better way to wrap up a windswept day than with a celebratory pint? The Rusty Mackerel welcomed us like old friends. Guinness flowed, stories were swapped, and we left feeling satisfied, windswept, and just a little bit chuffed with ourselves.

We’ve officially crossed the border into County Antrim, greeted by British flags flying at half-mast in remembrance of the Duchess of Kent, a quiet moment of reflection before the day’s adventure began.

Our first stop was a brief but spirited visit to The Old Bushmills Distillery, where the scent of oak barrels and a splash of Irish heritage set the tone.

Then it was onward, following in the legendary footsteps of giants to one of Northern Ireland’s most iconic treasures: the Giant’s Causeway.

This World Heritage Site is nothing short of magical. Flanked by the wild North Atlantic and dramatic cliffs, the Causeway’s 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, formed by volcanic eruptions over 60 million years ago, look like something out of a fantasy novel. Some say it was built by the mythical giant Finn McCool, and honestly, it’s easy to believe.

We spent a mighty day walking the upper cliff trails, each at our own pace, soaking in the panoramic views and the raw beauty of the coastline. The jagged headland points toward Scotland, and on a clear day, you can almost imagine the giants striding across.

From the sea-slicked stones to the secluded bays and windswept cliffs, the Causeway is a place where geology meets legend, and every step feels like part of a story.

As the sun began to dip, we made a short drive to Ballintoy, our home for the night, with a wee stop to admire the ruins of Dunseverick Castle, perched stoically above the sea.

A day of myth, mist and mighty landscapes. Northern Ireland, you’ve truly cast your spell.

After a peaceful evening in the charming village of Ballintoy, nestled in County Antrim’s rugged coastal beauty, we set off toward Carrickfergus, where history stands tall on the edge of Belfast Lough. Our destination: Carrickfergus Castle, a remarkably preserved Norman stronghold built by John de Courcy in the late 12th century. Once a strategic military site until 1928, the castle now welcomes visitors as a state historical monument. Inside, we explored centuries-old cannons, fascinating exhibits and a cozy visitor centre brimming with local crafts and books. With our guide leading the way, the castle’s stone walls whispered stories of sieges, soldiers and resilience.

Lunch was a brief stop at Gobbins Visitors Centre (sadly due to rockfall Gobbins Cliff Path was closed).

With the weather turning, our guide Phillip took the wheel and gave us a thoughtful drive through Belfast’s layered history. We passed the city’s peace walls, stark reminders of Northern Ireland’s troubled past. Originally erected in 1969 to separate Catholic/Nationalist and Protestant/Unionist communities, these barriers have grown in number and complexity since the Good Friday Agreement. Today, they stand not only as physical dividers but as emotional ones too. While efforts to dismantle them are underway, the road to reconciliation is paved with trust, education and time.

This evening, we enjoyed a delightful farewell Dinner, (one of our fellow walkers is leaving for Scotland tomorrow).   

After dinner, two or three of our troops popped into a very old Pub, Robinsons, for a taste of good old Irish music.

This morning began with a short drive to one of Belfast’s most celebrated attractions; the multi-award-winning Titanic Experience Museum. Housed on the very site where the RMS Titanic was built, the museum offers a deeply immersive, self-guided journey through the ship’s creation, voyage and enduring legacy.

The Titanic, crafted by Harland and Wolff for the White Star Line, was a marvel of early 20th-century engineering; luxurious, ambitious and tragically underprepared. Its fateful maiden voyage in April 1912 ended in disaster when it struck an iceberg in the North Atlantic, claiming over 1,500 lives. Yet its story continues to captivate the world, retold through books, films and exhibits that explore both the grandeur and the heartbreak.

After the museum, the group enjoyed a leisurely afternoon exploring Belfast city, wandering at our own pace, soaking up the atmosphere and finally basking in a rare treat: a glorious sunny day!

Farewell Belfast.   Thank you for turning on grand weather which enhanced our various adventures.

The road south led us along the majestic Carlingford Lough, a shimmering stretch of water that hugs the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic. We paused for an hour in the charming village of Carlingford, nestled between the Cooley Mountains and the lough that reaches out to the Irish Sea. It was the kind of place that feels like a postcard come to life.

A bittersweet moment followed as we said a heartfelt farewell to Phillip, our wonderful driver and companion for the past 12 days. He wasn’t just behind the wheel, he was part of the adventure.

Continuing south, we arrived at one of Europe’s most awe-inspiring archaeological treasures: Brú na Bóinne. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to the ancient passage tombs of Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth, built around 3200 BC, making them older than the pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge. Mind-blowing!

With a guide, we ventured through the narrow, stone-lined passage of Newgrange, emerging into a central cruciform chamber crowned with a corbelled roof. The atmosphere was thick with history and mystery, it was one of those moments that leaves you quietly awestruck.

By 6:30pm, we rolled into Dublin, ready to soak up the final secrets of this lively city. Tomorrow marks our last full day, and we’re determined to make it count, whether that means discovering hidden gems, sipping something local or simply wandering with wide eyes.

What a magical adventure through the Emerald Isle! From misty cliffs and cozy pubs to the warm smiles and rich stories of the locals, Ireland has wrapped us in its charm and left us wanting more. It’s been a fab trip; full of craic, culture, and countless cups of tea. Sláinte to the memories made and the ones still to come. Until the next time… may the road rise to meet us again.