Walking in Japan | November 2025

We gathered in Auckland, a very excited and eager group. Everyone was on time and were soon through passport control, security and duty free. The flight to Tokyo was a bit bumpy and soon we were there.

Mandy had arranged pre-arrival QR codes and we whipped through Passport Control, found all our luggage and were on our way to the last stage of the entry procedure;  Customs. Out with the QR code again and we were through. Waiting for us was Yuki Kobo, our Tokyo guide. This charming, smiley woman was a delight and she quickly had us on the right platform for the Narita Express.

While we were waiting for our train, Mandy handed out the Suica cards (IC Cards/Electronic Transport card all preloaded). Some of us quickly found out the cards could be used on vending machines and in convenience stores.

Fast trip into Tokyo and we were soon at our hotel near the Tokyo JR Station. Time for sleep before our day tomorrow.

Hotel: Metropolitan Marunouchi

We woke to a beautiful blue sky day – the weather was perfect for discovering Tokyo. Our hotel starts on the 27^th floor so everywhere we could look out across Tokyo city: tall buildings, wide streets and the nearby Emperial Palace and Gardens.

At 8.15am Mandy took some of us on an orientation walk to the old part of Tokyo Station and the Emperor’s Gardens. We started with a look at the South Entry dome built in 1914, continued on the entrance exclusively for the Emperor and finished with crossing a section of moat and past some of the palace trees.

Back at the hotel, Yuki arrived, we got set up with the Whispers and were soon out there on the metro system. Our first stop was Skytree, (equivalent to Sky tower in Auckland) but much higher. We took a number of escalators and elevators to move from several floors below the ground to 450m high in the sky. As it was such a clear day the views were extensive; we could see far out to sea beyond Tokyo Bay and across the city to distant Fuji. Very impressive. Tokyo has 14 millions inhabitants within the metropolitan area and 30 million in its environs. Today being Sunday I think there were a few million out and about!

Back on the train system we headed off to the Asakusa, the area of Tokyo's oldest temple. First we stopped for a well deserved lunch: Tempura. All of us were pleased with a chance to have a rest and refuel. When we were ready we walked the short distance to Shofuku-ji Temple. Remembering that most of Tokyo was fire bombed in World War II and its wood and paper buildings were destroyed, its remarkable this 15^th century wooden structure remains. And man was it crowded! Locals, tourist, shops and even dogs and pet racoons were out and about. Yuki walked us to the temple through the avenue of shops and past people in kimonos, modern dress, tourist clothes and ordinary folk – a kaleidoscope of humanity.

It was getting on to late afternoon and we still had one more stop – Ginza, the fashionable area. We all took the metro to Ginza and on the way Mandy interviewed the guide and some were able to ask her questions. Yuki was very honest and open and we learnt some things about the Japanese way of life, its declining birth rate and the homeless.

Arriving at Ginza, the group split into those who wanted to go back to the hotel with Ruth and the others. The ones that remained walked up to Ginza 6, a modern department store and took the lift to the rooftop garden. It was calming to walk around the building and look across the city, breath some oxygen and notice some trees in their autumn colours. Also we got to see Uniqlo across the street – that’s on the must-come-back list.

Back on street level we walking up to Ginza 1-3. As it was Sunday the whole area was a pedestrian zone and with the light fading many neon and fairy lights appeared in the trees and buildings. Our last stop was a glimpse at the treasure inside the best stationary shop in the world, Itoya, We used the narrow escalator to view 8 levels of wonderful things – another on the must-return list.

And that was it, a busy full and glorious day in Tokyo.

Today was an exciting day as it was the first time for most of us to experience the Japanese Bullet train or the Shinkansen. To prepare for our 2 hour journey we popped in to the nearest convenience store for some snacks and drinks. Ruth Page (Assistant Tour Leader) led us through the formalities at the gate and we were soon on the platform ready for the train. As our Shinkansen was originating in Tokyo we had extra time to get on board and stow our large luggage; so we could sit back and relax. 

It wasn’t long before we were whizzing through the countryside. Highlight moment was sighting Mt Fuji without clouds.

Starting an hour earlier than normal, 8am, we headed off with Mandy to Fushimi Inari Taisha, the temple with over a 1,000 vermillion torii. Even this early it was busy; however as ever polite but determined kiwis, we made our way through the tourists (we’re not tourists, we are travellers; not here just to see but also to experience the culture and landscape). We went up the small hill to the start of the torii path. 

 

Walking through the multiple gates became more contemplative as the crowds thinned and the forest was closer to the torii. The path takes you slightly uphill and then across to a point where it divides and you can go to the top of the hill or come down along a forest walk. 

At 10am we gathered together and were soon on the train back to Kyoto, to get ready for the rest of the day. 11.10am we met our local guide Yuko Kanamitsu and were on our private bus – thank goodness – and could travel through Kyoto without trying to find space on those crowded buses.

At the Woman’s Institute (housed in two old traditional Japanese houses) we met with the charming ladies who provided classes in Origami and Calligraphy. It has to be noted some of us were better than others at folding and writing. 😊

 

Back on the bus we moved on to Ninenzaka, an area of houses, shops and cafes. Here we had a break for a drink and/or food or even Matcha Ice Cream. Whispers on and we were off with Yuko to stroll through this area and on to Gion (Geisha district). We passed many shops and walked along many narrow lanes. The best was the narrow alleyways away from the tourists where it was quiet and peaceful. Half way through our stroll it started to sprinkle and Mandy treated us to a hot drink. Nice to have a cuppa and a sit down.

At the end of our stroll it was dark and certainly time for dinner. What a treat as we had a 10 course banquet which started with small appetising appetisers and finished with a delicate dessert. During our meal a Maiko (apprentice Geiko) and a Geiko (modern name for Geisha) came to dance, talk and play a game with us. There was a moment of delight when the Geiko realised we came from New Zealand as she had been an exchange student in Wellington for four years. When she spoke English we could hear the kiwi accent – surreal.  

 

A short walk to the Metro station and we were soon home. Day done; can it only be day 3, we have already seen and done so much!

It was a very smooth transition from Kyoto to the regional train to Nara station and hotel. After leaving our bags at the hotel, we walked across the station to the older area of Nara. We immediately came across a group of men singing in public for nuclear disarmament.

We were on a mission for coffee, so off we went, just around the corner to St Marks for their great coffee and chocolate croissants. Nice.

When we were ready, we strolled back to the station and caught a local bus — no crowds — to Nara Deer Park. Deer were everywhere, extremely tame. These deer have been here since 751 AD and are protected. If a deer bows to you, you are a special person (or it’s looking for food 😊).

Our destination was Todai-ji, home to the largest sitting brass Buddha in the world. This statue is housed inside a beautiful traditional building within a large Buddhist complex. We had a brief introduction and a chance to walk around, admiring the impressive Buddha and his guardians.

At this point, we split into two groups: the long walkers (with Mandy) and the shorter walkers (with Ruth). The long walkers headed to the Primeval Forest walk, which followed a forest road through the trees. Currently, there are signs warning about bears; however, lots of people were using the road and we never saw any fur or scat.

The shorter walkers stayed on the flat and found more deer and trees turning into autumn colours.

A great day all round!

Heading west, we had a private coach take us to one of the most sacred places in Japan, Mt Koya. High in the mountains, this complex of temples, town, and vast cemetery is full of atmosphere. On the way, we made a technical stop (toilet stop) at a wayside shop. A housewife appeared in the shop and handed some of us a small paper decoration (a Christmas tree with a dove and a “Wish for Peace in the World” written in English and Japanese). When she asked Mandy how many her friends were and discovered we were a large group, she handed the whole packet to her to give out. What a special treat for us all. Back on the bus, the shop attendants came out to wave us off.

Arriving at Mt Koya cemetery, it was about 10°C, no wind but certainly cold. Our local guide was ready for us, and we were soon off walking amongst the many granite tombstones. Among the tombs were ancient cedar trees, modern graves, and moss‑covered stones. Quiet and peaceful.

Okunoin (or inner sanctuary) was opened in 835 AD and, with over 200,000 graves, is considered the largest cemetery in Japan. Here lies Kukai, the monk who founded esoteric Buddhism in Japan and also the 88 temples on Shikoku, where we are going next.

Walking up the main avenue, we arrived at a low stone bridge over a narrow stream. This water marked the area between sacred and extremely sacred – beyond the bridge no photos were allowed. Inside the main hall it was dark and quiet. A few believers were paying respect, and we could smell the incense in the heavy air.

Back outside and beyond the bridge, we came across businessmen bowing in respect to tombs, which we assumed belonged to previous CEOs of the companies they worked for. Many important CEOs’ ashes are here, with granite references to their corporate businesses – for example, a giant teacup for a beverage producer.

After a short break for lunch, we moved by bus to the higher part of Koyasan, the temple area. Walking around and then through the huge entry gates, we were confronted with many large buildings. Better yet, a monk was ringing a huge bell by pulling a large horizontal log into it. Bong… Bong… – he was driving away evil spirits and blessing us at the same time. In this area of Mt Koya are all the most important structures and objects: Shinto shrine, Buddhist temples, sacred pine trees, huge bell, and pagodas. The brightest pagoda, Konpon Daitō, is considered to be at the centre of a mandala which covers the whole of Japan – a very sacred spot. Mandy paid the entry fee, shoes off, and we wandered around the huge Buddha images and painted walls and posts as she explained more about what we were seeing and the significance of the postures.

Back in the sunshine, we ended our walk at the headquarters of esoteric Buddhism in Japan, Kongobu‑ji.

Time to leave, so we set off on the narrow, winding mountain road – thank goodness for a professional bus driver. The worst moments were when another vehicle came towards us and there was literally no room to pass – we were too big to back up, so some clever manoeuvres were required.

Three hours later, we arrived at Kawayu Onsen beside the Oto River. Onsen are thermal water baths, and our hotel had both indoor and outdoor options. First, though, it was time for a break and a chance to explore our room to find the yukata clothes we could wear in the hotel. These comfortable clothes are unisex and consist of a gown, belt, and jacket. We all turned up for dinner wearing our yukata and looked very Western‑Japanese. After dinner, Mandy took the brave ladies in our group to the women’s onsen and the ritual of Japanese bathing. After the washing, soaking, and relaxing, most of us – men and women – gathered in the outdoor pool (with bath clothes on) to enjoy the night air, see some stars, and even watch a white heron fishing in the river.

An absolutely top day, we headed out to walk part of the Kumano Kodo. Our local guides were Waka, Jennifer, Keigo, and Seigo. Splitting into two groups, we enjoyed so much of the day: the peaceful paths, the sunshine through the leaves, flashes of autumn colour, and of course the company of our guides.

Lying on the logs in the forest, forest bathing was a highlight. It was so calming and restful.

Halfway along our walk, we stopped for a bento box lunch and a chance to gaze across the landscape to the distant, huge torii gate, our final destination. Along the way, we collected stamps at the Oji, small forest spirits, and heard some interesting legends and stories.

At the Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine, Mandy bought an Ema so we could all sign our names and leave a wish for peace at this beautiful place.

With the day almost over, we popped into a local shop to buy beverages for our six o’clock's back at the Onsen. A nice end to a terrific day as we relaxed and chatted about our Japan experience so far.

Travelling from the Kii Peninsula to Shikoku Island took most of the day. We set off with Waka on our private coach and headed west to Wakayama. We made a technical stop along the way to test out the vending machines, then continued on to Wakayama Station. This was a break stop and an opportunity to buy lunch before moving on to Wakayama Port.

It was sad saying goodbye to our lovely young driver, who had kept us safe on those narrow, winding mountain roads.

At the ferry terminal, we enjoyed our lunch and then negotiated all our bags up the stairs to the overpass, which took us to the ferry dock. Everything ran like clockwork: we were soon on the boat, bags stored, and everyone had a seat. The Inland Sea was flat and calm, so the two-hour crossing was very smooth.

Arriving at Tokushima Port, we were greeted by Saori (pronounced Sow-e), our local guide, and taken by private transfer to the hotel. Located right next to Tokushima train station, we were in a great spot for food, shops, and transport.

At 5:30 pm, Mandy took the group for an orientation walk to the nearby river, giving us a chance to see the colourful lights on the many bridges crossing the water. Some of us chose to have dinner at a local Japanese restaurant, where Ruth valiantly handled all the translation. Definitely time for bed before a big walk tomorrow.

Another beautiful clear day, and it was Judith’s birthday. A happy group headed off with Saori and Ruth (Mandy was unwell). The private coach took everyone to Temple 20, where Saori explained the ritual pilgrims go through when they visit each temple. Fascinating!

The large group then split into two, with the majority walking with Saori down the hill, across the river valley, and up the hill to Temple 21. Ruth took a small group by bus around to the base of the ropeway, and they zoomed up the hill by gondola. After lunch, the two parties reunited, and everyone came down the hill by the ropeway.

Back at the hotel, we had a small celebration for Judith and then another array of choices: LOFT with Ruth at 5 pm, dinner with Mandy at 6 pm, and lastly a dance performance with Saori at 7:30 pm.

All in all, another wonderful day.

We have been so fortunate with the weather, waking to yet another blue-sky day. This morning’s options were 1. Potter about, 2. Go with Ruth to the Indigo Dyeing Workshop or 3. Go with Mandy and visit Temple 1,2 & 3 as per the programme. 

The Indigo Dyeing Workshop was almost a disaster, as the group happened to arrive on a national holiday to find no one home. Luckily, a local obaasan (Japanese grandmother) took pity and called the factory owners, who soon arrived with their five-year-old son to open up and guide us through a tour and dyeing experience. The factory was a complete operation, from dyeing cotton threads through to sewing finished fabric, and the group left delighted, carrying many beautiful indigo treasures (some handmade on the spot!).

Those who joined Mandy enjoyed a short trip on a regional train. A brief walk brought us to Temple 1, an ancient worship site visited by millions over its 1,400-year history. The temple complex is small, old, and features a beautiful lantern hall. Moving on, we walked beside a busy road for only a few minutes before reaching Temple 2, a wealthier site whose main feature is the granite footprints of Buddha. Lastly, we enjoyed a longer and quieter walk through an urban–rural setting to Temple 3. Done and dusted, we made our way back to the train station and were soon back in Tokushima.

After coffee and a snack, we regrouped with everyone and our large luggage to catch the limited express to Takamatsu. Just an hour northwest, we found ourselves in a modern city. The views from our hotel were extensive, and we discovered even more of the surroundings when Mandy led us on an orientation walk at 3:30 p.m.

 

Our first rain in Japan was forecast for early morning and only briefly, but the forecast was wrong. It came later, and the few sprinkles were heavier than expected. However, it didn’t dampen our spirits as we headed off to Ritsurin Gardens by local train. In fact, the rain had freshened up the trees, shrubs, and grass. These 300‑year‑old gardens have been lovingly cared for by one family and were wondrous.

The maples varied in shade from flaming red to muted orange, and around every corner was another visual delight. Mandy led us from the north to the south and then over to the southeast corner. To brighten our spirits, we began composing haikus. At 10 a.m. we had tea in the ancient Tea House, giving us a chance to dry off and rest for a moment.

Most of us then chose to join Mandy to travel to Yashima and climb Temple 84. By the time the train reached Yashima, the rain had stopped, and the sun even came out to help dry us off. After a brief stop at the local supermarket to grab some lunch, we headed up the gentle slopes through the suburban area. Reaching the beginning of the forest trail, we tackled the slopes at our own pace. The path was mostly concrete and wide, so it was safe to walk even with the fallen leaves and recent rain.

Very quickly we gained views across the city out to the Seto Sea. Beautiful maples lined the path, and there were many rest seats. Arriving at the top, we turned left to enjoy panoramic views of the islands and distant mainland. You couldn’t ask for a better view while eating your lunch. Everyone made it, and we all celebrated our triumph.

It started to cloud over, so we began the return journey with a quick stop at a shop Mandy recommended along the way. In the distance we could hear sirens for well over 30 minutes, but we never really found out what they were for.

Back on the flat, we discovered that if we moved quickly we could catch the next train. Thankfully, we all made it and were soon back in Takamatsu. Time for a shower and change of clothes before six o’clock's in Mandy’s room & a briefing about Naoshima tomorrow.

 

What an adventurous, active group we are! Most of us set off with Mandy to Shikoku Village, an ethnographic open-air museum. We arrived a little early, but the very kind manager, who spoke excellent English, let us in before opening time. In fact, we had the whole place to ourselves as we wandered between buildings through the curated landscape. Filled with lovingly restored and reconstructed structures, the museum has been arranged into ensembles depicting life on Shikoku; from sugar making to lighthouse keeping. We happily spent 90 minutes strolling around and ended up in the colonial house, which is now the café.

Returning to the station, we had a hectic moment getting over the station bridge to track 3, but the considerate train driver waited for us and even opened the front door. Soon we were trucking along back to Takamatsu, right on time for our express train to Matsuyama.

As usual, we headed off early to the train station, quickly boarded, and were all settled as the train departed punctually (always on time in Japan). The track runs near the coastline, making the ride particularly attractive.

In Matsuyama we faithfully followed Mandy as we wove our way through the train station to the tram stop. Five stops down the line brought us to our hotel, the ANA Crowne Plaza. Time to freshen up, and then an orientation walk with Mandy at 5 p.m. We are very close to the pedestrian street and also the castle,  so there is plenty to explore.

A clear blue sky with a chill in the air, and we had a castle to explore. There are only five castles in Japan that have not been destroyed, and Matsuyama is one of them. Built in 1603, it has had lightning strikes, been bombed and even an arson attempt over the centuries; however, it still stands proudly on its plateau with its views across the prefecture.

Up the ropeway we went, and then further up through the baileys and vast walls to the plateau itself. Tickets quickly bought, we were in. Up the narrow, steep internal stairs we climbed, walking on old oak floors and among ancient wooden walls. The castle has a number of exhibits of the founder, armour, and personal items—not too much and not too little. Mandy guided us around, and we climbed to the highest level. Judith tried on the armour (children’s size), and we all enjoyed the countryside views from the soldier’s watch floor… miles upon miles of buildings where once there would have been fields and forests.

Back on the ground, we moved on to Dogo by tram. Arriving just before noon, we were in time to see the mechanical clock do its thing. Dogo is the former site of the Emperor’s onsen (bath house). It has a pedestrian street and orange ice cream. Mandy treated us all to the ice cream, and then we had the afternoon free to do as we wished until dinner.

Meeting up again at 5:50 p.m., Mandy trotted us around to a small Japanese restaurant where we had a private room for tonight’s banquet. Lots of courses, all beautifully presented - we were all full by the end of it.

We really could not have asked for better weather; once again it was clear, fresh, and calm. Our private coach and Soari, the guide, turned up on time and we were soon on our way to Temple 45, deep in the countryside. Morning mist lifted off the fields as the sun warmed the lingering frost, and the burning reds and oranges of the maple trees were a sight to behold.

Alighting at the park near the base of Temple 45, we paused for a technical stop (toilet), crossed the narrow bridge, and started on our way beside the river. The first 2 km was a path tracing the tumbling stream. Flashes of yellow from the gingkoes and autumn trees mixed with green and grey.

The next 2 km took us around the back of farms and through a young forest plantation. Throughout this part of the walk the terrain was undulating. We were all feeling fit and able, so we walked on to the lunch place, an outdoor picnic area. At this stage a quarter of us took the bus option, while the rest moved on to the next village a kilometre down the road. More folk got on the bus and were whisked ahead to our rendezvous point, Lawson in Koen.

From here the terrain grew harder as the path climbed to the saddle, crossed into the pine forest, and descended to Temple 44. Nowadays a tunnel goes through the hill for vehicle traffic. Up we went, and it wasn’t long until we reached the ridgeline and the stone oji someone had managed to bring up here.

Going down was quicker but also trickier, as recent rain had turned the track into a watercourse, leaving stones and rocks scattered along the path. Nothing stopped us, though, and we finished the last 2 km with a visit to Temple 44. Almost hidden among mature trees, this temple has its own charm, and the gingko trees were a glorious yellow.

By 3 p.m. we were all at Lawson’s and ready to return to the city. A brilliant last walk.

As something very Japanese, Ruth and Mandy had organised karaoke at 6 p.m. Unlike New Zealand karaoke, we all piled into the party room with unlimited drinks and snacks. Ruth created a playlist with our chosen songs, and soon we were all singing along and having a great time. The disco ball flashed overhead, and the microphones were passed around. Great fun!

It was breakfast in Shikoku and dinner in Honshu as we left Matsuyama for Hiroshima. One group travelled with Ruth in taxis from the hotel to the port, while the other went with Mandy by tram–train–bus to the port. Happily, we all arrived at about the same time and even had a chance to make cranes.

The high‑speed boat took just over an hour to cross the Inland Sea and bring us to Hiroshima Port. A local tram (number 5) carried us directly to the main train station and our hotel, the Granvia. At lunchtime, Mandy zoomed off to add more yen to our Suica cards.

Peace Park was next, reached by the local tourist bus. It was a cultural shock to leave quiet Shikoku and arrive in busy, bustling Hiroshima. Mandy and Ruth shared the story of the first atomic weapon used; Mandy with the technical details and Ruth with the human side. It was deeply moving, and we all had a quiet moment as we placed our cranes at the children’s memorial.

Walking the length of the park, Mandy arranged entry into the museum, and everyone took as much time as they needed to explore the exhibits and/or the park before returning on the tourist bus.

At 6 p.m., Mandy led the willing on a riverside walk and then to Peace Boulevard to see the Christmas lights. Bright, colourful, and fanciful, they lined both sides of the street and looked magical against the clear night sky.

Today was cloudy but not cold or wet, so it was perfect for a visit to Miyajima Island and its floating Torii gate. Leaving at 9 a.m., we were soon there by train and ferry. A nice stroll along the waterfront brought us to the famous Torii, and we had time to take photos. Mandy started the walk up to the beginning of the ropeway, and Ruth (aka Little Grasshopper) took over when Google was leading Mandy the wrong way. It was a beautiful walk through the maple trees, and we arrived at the ropeway station. It was surprisingly busy today, so we had a brief wait before taking the two gondola rides to the top.

Here we divided into two groups: those taking the scenic ride down by ropeway with Ruth, and those taking the active way with Mandy. The scenic group spent time enjoying the shops and cakes, then returned earlier to the hotel with time to browse the local fabric store.

Mandy’s group walked on to Mt. Misen for its panoramic views. Most of us had to battle with the wild deer to protect our food. As a group, we descended the mountain with its many steps and winding forest path. There was a stop for lunch and, of course, for photos—the autumn colours were exceptional.

Back in town, we had coffee and tried the local delicacy, the maple cookie Momiji Manju. Delicious! All done and dusted, we caught an earlier ferry back and the fast train to Hiroshima Station.

Later, we gathered for dinner: Okonomiyaki, Japanese pancakes. Everyone enjoyed them. Tomorrow Tokyo by Shinkansen.

An easy start to the day as we were due to catch the Nozomi 92 at 11:03 am. Arriving early, we were soon on the train and seated – so much more time when it’s an originating train terminus. We were in car #16, the first car behind the engine. It was zoom, zoom as we rushed across Honshu, travelling over 800 km in just 4 hours.

Arriving in Tokyo, it was a skip and a hop to our hotel, with the feeling of coming home as it was the same hotel where we had started our adventure. After a break, some of the ladies accompanied Mandy and Ruth to the fabric district of Tokyo, dominated by the shop, Tomato. So much fabric, leather, accessories, buttons, and trims – a sewer’s paradise.

Our farewell dinner was at the hotel’s Tenqoo restaurant, and what a delicious feast it was. Several courses with beautifully crafted plates and wonderful flavours, plus a view across the skyscrapers of Tokyo.

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