Walking in Japan | November 2024

Early start for the Air NZ flight departing Auckland at 9.55am. Crowded airport but everyone got through and boarded. Arrival into Tokyo had typical queues but most whizzed through using QR codes. One bag was delayed and remained in Auckland initially.

Hotel: Hotel Metropolitan Kawasaki

First step was to get the IC (travel cards) charged up with yen so we could use them on the trains, trams, boats, streetcars and buses. These amazing tag on, tag off cards will be so useful for our trip in Japan. Next step, everyone had a whisper so we can hear the guide even in crowded, noisy places. Last step meet the local guide Mr Sojito Kajiura and start our Toyko day.

The day was perfect with blue clear skies and a light breeze. We tagged on like pros as we moved north to Asakusa area with its ancient temple and modern Sky Tree.

In the middle of the dense crowds, we had news of the missing bag – it had arrived at Narita Airport and was now speaking Japanese to its owner. To recover the bag there were more forms to complete; watch this space for the next instalment of this saga.

Meanwhile back in the densely packed street market of Kannon Temple it was time for some intrepid kiwis to make a break for freedom… instead of facing the metro and trains again, we walked through the suburban streets to Tokyo Sky Tree. From the tallest tower in Tokyo, on such a clear day the views across this vast city were impressive. We couldn’t see Mt Fuji but we looked hard.

 

Time for lunch and Tempura was on the menu; it didn’t disappoint. I think we were the only westerners in the restaurant, which speaks to its freshness and quality.

A quick stop for coffee and then it was down to the river for a cruise to Haimarikyu Gardens. It was around 3pm by this stage and the golden light of the coming sunset (5pm) made the places more beautiful. Originally the Garden was a duck shooting park; lots of ducks but no more spears or guns.

Its fair to day we were all a bit tired so we elected to return to the hotel and have a break.

The last event of the day was dinner and some brave souls came out with Mandy to the nearby pedestrian street where we found a local restaurant and authentic Japanese food. The trick here was everything was in Japanese and the staff knew little English – out with Google Translate and we had our meals and drinks ordered on the table computer menus. Great meals and very inexpensive. Roll on tomorrow as we try out the bullet train and explore Kyoto.

After a wonderful breakfast with a range of Western and Eastern food, it was time to gather ourselves and our belongings together to start our journey to Kyoto. First step was catching the local train to Shinagawa to connect to the Shinkansen (bullet train). By mistake we got the train going to Yokohama (opposite direction); however, we had 90 minutes for the 15 minutes trip so that was soon overcome. We certainly knew how to use the elevators to get our luggage to the right level for the train platform by the time we got to Shinagawa.

Next step get on the right Shinkansen. We arrived on Platform 24 in good time just as a train was arriving. I was arranging the group so we could get on our carriage from both ends; I grabbed one of our party to stop them getting on the wrong train when I heard a roar and found to my horror one of our group had got on the wrong train and the doors were closing. A smiley face appeared from inside the train and waved as the train started moving. The Shinkansen moves at over 200kph so I knew you blink and you’re away, way down the track. I didn’t know where the wrong train was going but I did know Roger didn’t have a ticket (as I had the group tickets) and somehow, I needed to get him to Kyoto. A quick phone call to him to relay instructions. Then all the group’s attention was getting on the right train, Nozomi 23, and starting our own journey to Kyoto.

The bullet trains don’t stop often – we had 3 stops on a 450km trip, which took 2 hours. I was considering Roger’s options when our train made its first stop and who comes wandering down the carriage but our missing man. The wrong train had made the same stop and let him off and our train happened to use the same platform so he was able to hop on our train! Amazing. After all of that the trip seemed very smooth and uneventful.

Kyoto was sunny and still when we arrived; the next part of the plan which was to store our big luggage at our hotel, have lunch and take a local bus out to the Philosopher’s Walk. Meanwhile, Rory was on a mission to locate his missing bag. There was some confusion about where the blessed bag was; the Tokyo hotel said it had been sent to Kyoto, Air NZ said it was going to arrive at the Kyoto hotel after we had left and the bag tile was mumbling to itself in broken English saying, “Me lost, someone find me.”

Well… it was at the Kyoto hotel – a huge relief. Rory give it a good kicking and told it to stop being so naughty; however, I could tell he was very happy to be able to change his clothes, socks and shoes.

Rory giving his bag a good talking to

Okay on to the afternoon – can you believe this is only the second day of our Japanese Adventure? Off we all go across the train station to the bus station to catch the local #7 and its there and it’s on time! Great, until we go to get off on the 18th stop and our IC cards go on strike. I found enough cash (230 Yen) in coins for each person, and we managed to get off. Thankfully the bus driver was very nice and wanted us to have a happy time in Kyoto.

The Philosopher’s Walk was a delight with the small stream, the many bridges, trees turning to Autumn colours, lots of lovely houses and temples. I think we all found our blood pressure drop.

Now it was time to catch another local bus (#5) back to our hotel. The first one comes along and its full. That was a shock, it’s not even 5 o’clock. So, we decided to split into groups of four and as many as possible will get on the next bus. Did I mention the bus stop was next to the zoo and every so often there would be a mighty roar like something wanted to eat us. Next bus and we used some determination to get as many as possible on the bus. Next bus, even more of us get on and then the next bus and we made sure everyone got on and no one was left behind. The bus driver was calling ‘Full, full’ and were like an All Black forward pack heading for the try line. Coins once again to pay the fare. I was in the last group, and we arrived at the hotel only minutes after the first and second group (traffic).

It was absolutely time for a drink. So it was check into our rooms, rendezvous at 6pm and straight across the road to the Irish pub, Man in the Moon. It was a merry old time; toasting the safe return of Roger, recovering the missing bag and me finding my missing IC card – whew what a day! Last thing was a delicious local dinner and bed.

Visited Fushimi Inari Taisha with its long corridors of vermillion torii gates. Met local guide Yuko Kanemitsu. Visited Women’s Institute for origami and calligraphy classes (jumping frogs, samurai hats, learning calligraphy styles). Walked Ninenzaka Slope and finished with a traditional restaurant

Took train to Nara (55 minutes). Left big luggage at the hotel and enjoyed coffee and cakes. Walked to Nara Park and saw the sacred tame deer, and visited the large bronze Buddha. A gentle start to the day and walking through quieter, more historic areas.

Travelled to Koyasan, staying at traditional accommodation with experience of temple grounds and mountain atmosphere. Explored the historic sites and enjoyed the serene environment typical of the area.

Left Koyasan for Wakayama and coastal scenery. Enjoyed local dining and exploring seaside sights; some group members took short walks while others relaxed.

Travelled on to Kinosaki (traditional onsen town). Time to sample hot springs and stroll the charming streets with ryokan and small shops.

On to Kanazawa, famed for Kenroku-en garden and gold-leaf crafts. Enjoyed garden strolling and local craft demonstrations.

Travelled to Takayama; explored old streets, sampled regional food and enjoyed the alpine town atmosphere.

Visited Ritsurin Gardens (beautiful 400-year-old garden). Choice of staying in city centre or visiting Yashima (Temple 84). Later enjoyed city views from the Astro Bar on the 21st floor.

Took hydrofoil to Naoshima (Art Island). Visited Art House Project in Honmura, Benesse House Museum and Chichu Art Museum (Monet installations highly enjoyed). Weather closed in but art made the day special.

Optional visit to Shikoku Village Museum or free time. Travelled along the coast to Matsuyama; orientation and local dinner recommendations were shared.

Visited Matsuyama Castle (ropeway up/down). Explored castle's baileys, samurai armour displays and the Dogo Onsen area (oldest onsen, shops, rickshaws, quirky attractions).

Private coach to a mountain walk — riverside, streams, forest paths and temple visits (Temple 44). Group split into walkers and those taking the coach. An incident resulted in one member needing medical attention (arm injury) and hospital visit.

Ferry to Hiroshima, streetcar into the city, visit to Hiroshima Peace Park, Atomic Dome Memorial and the Children’s Memorial where the group placed paper cranes.

Picture-perfect day on Miyajima Island: ropeway views, Mt Misen, and the floating Great Torii Gate at Itsukushima Shrine. Some missed a ferry but caught the next one and later enjoyed okonomiyaki dinner.

Shinkansen back to Tokyo (about 4 hours 33 minutes). Enjoyed a farewell dinner with great views from the 27th floor of the hotel.

Final morning in Ginza: Itoya stationery store, Nissan Crossing, Uniqlo, and a picnic-ish lunch in the Imperial Gardens. Traveled to Narita by Narita Express and flew home on Air New Zealand.