E-Bike: Italy, Austria & Slovenia | August /September 2026

It was goodbye NZ and Salam alaikum to Dubai as we caught our evening flight… we are a happy crowd of 10. Picking up our last two group members in Vienna. 

Arriving early this morning, we were instantly hit by the heat — thank goodness for air conditioning. We started well, with everyone’s luggage turning up. A quick trip to the hotel gave us a very welcome chance to shower, change clothes, and enjoy a late breakfast.

Most of the group chose to join Mandy for a slow stroll down to Dubai Creek. It was 9.30am and not many people were about. Down at the ferry dock, Mandy negotiated with a ferryman to take us for a boat ride up the creek. It was very pleasant, with a slight cooling breeze off the water and a slower pace as we travelled beyond the Sheikh’s palace and back to the Gold Souk, landing on the opposite side.

Once off the boat, we could feel the heat again, so sticking to the shadows we walked to the main corridor of gold shops. Man alive — so much gold, gems, and opportunity to shop!

We didn’t stay long as we were all feeling hot. Mandy navigated us to the nearest Metro station, popping two of us into a taxi for a quick trip back to the hotel for a rest. Once on the Metro, we whizzed along the Green Line, then the Red Line to Dubai Mall. Here we had a chance to walk in the air conditioning and grab a bite to eat. Everyone chose to catch taxis back to the hotel for an afternoon rest and/or swim.

At 5pm we all met up at the Sherlock Holmes Pub within the hotel for an early drink and dinner. Day in Dubai done.

As we have an early afternoon flight to Europe, everyone opted for a free morning and a chance to catch up with themselves. Mandy took us down the road to the Arabian Teahouse for lunch and an opportunity to get to know each other better. This group has no trouble finding things to talk about.

After a tasty light lunch — which included a yellow rose for every woman in our group to celebrate Dubai Women’s Day — we went back to the hotel for our luggage. Then it was off to the airport and onto our six‑hour flight to Vienna.

Vienna has a small but perfectly formed international airport. It took hardly any time to get through passport control and collect our suitcases. Our chatty transfer man arrived, and soon we were on our way to the Beethoven Hotel in the central city. Time for sleep, and a whole city to discover in the morning.

Despite the recent hot weather, we woke to a lower temperature — a comfortable 24°C with some cloud. At breakfast we met up with our last two group members and had a chance to introduce ourselves.

First stop on our walk was the Naschmarkt, an open‑air food and clothing market spread between two roads and extending over one kilometre. Quite a mix of things: fresh teas, fruit, coffee shops, souvenir stalls, and clothing.

Next stop was the beautiful Secession Building with its white walls and golden dome of leaves. Around it are many small, random gardens where plots of land have been planted — or left wild — to grow plants for insects, bees, and birds. Walking on, we came to the Vienna Opera House just by the Ringstrasse (which was once the city walls). Inside the old town, the streets were mainly pedestrian; they were certainly narrow and twisted around the solid buildings. To get a higher view, we took the escalator to the terrace of the Albertina Museum.

Walking on to the Hofburg, the royal palace, we encountered the many courtyards and buildings with their covered passages and numerous statues. Eventually we ended up at the front of the palace with its grand balcony. Never mind the history — the group was distracted by local young men practising Spikeball for an upcoming championship.

It was definitely time for coffee, so Mandy walked us on to Michaelerplatz with its Roman remains — a quick peep and then a dash down to Demel as it started to rain! Once inside Demel, the smell of chocolate, sugar, and a hint of coffee was heavenly. Up, up we went to the third floor where they had arranged tables for our group of twelve. A wonderful morning tea followed, including the famous Sachertorte and Apfelstrudel. Filled up on sugar and caffeine, we moved on to the centre of Vienna for some free time to explore the shops and churches.

Re‑meeting at 12.45pm, it was a steady walk back to the Opera House to catch local tram D. On our way we passed the famous horses and the crazy icon rabbits. The tram ride took us nearly to the door of the Belvedere Museum for our timed visit. The Kiss by Gustav Klimt waited for us on the first floor. Thankfully, despite the number of visitors, we could get close. Beautiful.

At the end of the visit we separated into different interest groups. Some stayed on at the museum, others decided to take the tram ride around the ring road, and others chose to go back to the hotel. Many decided to meet up again to see the All Blacks play South Africa at the local Irish pub. (We lost ☹)

Good night, Vienna.

An easy day today as we left Vienna and headed south to Velden on the Austrian Lakes. Using the highway, we passed mountain villages and fields freshly ploughed. Today marked the official end of the summer vacation period, so there was traffic, but nothing that delayed us for long.

Arriving into Velden, Marco and Ernst were waiting for us at the Hotel Hubertushof; happy smiles all around. The rest of the afternoon was free to explore or simply sit and people‑watch over a cool beverage. Velden is a holiday town, and there were plenty of well‑dressed people out strolling with their dogs.

At 4pm we had our bike briefing and an overview of the cycle trip, then headed outside to try our bikes and get used to the European set‑up. Excitement is building, and everyone is hoping the weather will be kind as we set off west into Italy.

We had a later start to the day so we could avoid the holiday traffic. Once out of town we were on dedicated bike trails, minor roads, and quiet country lanes. Austria is charming with its small villages and tall church steeples, curated fields, and copses of trees. The group soon settled into riding the bikes and understanding the throttle, gear changes, and the four riding modes. With two batteries per bike, we were never going to run out of power — we just needed to get the feel of these e‑bikes.

 Gradually climbing, with some steep hills along the way, we reached our morning coffee stop with vast views across Lake Faak. Clear turquoise water against a dark green shoreline — stunning.

Moving on, we biked beside the River Drava through young forest. Unfortunately, we arrived later than expected at a café in the forest, so we quickly continued on to the nearby town of Arnoldstein. It was great to rest and refuel in the shade.

After lunch we reached the old border between Austria and Italy, with its derelict buildings and neglected air. Nearby, a modern highway carried cars, lorries, and motorbikes thundering over viaducts and through mountain tunnels. For us, it was up the hairpins and onto an old country road. This trail was shaded by forest, and the only traffic we encountered was other cyclists. Soon we were high in the mountains with views across narrow valleys to villages and farms.

Our goal today was to reach Tarvisio, an Italian mountain town. Approaching the village, we had our first experience of the Alpe Adria — a wonderful two‑lane cycle track that starts in Salzburg and finishes at Grado. I think it’s fair to say we all had a great day and were ready for hot showers and long, cool drinks.

Another clear day as we biked out of Tarvisio and back onto the Alpe Adria. A short climb to start, then downhill for most of the day. We met the van at Pontebba for morning tea and a catch‑up on all the antics so far. The highlight of this section was riding along the old railway line — smooth gradients, easy corners, plenty of tunnels and viaducts, and absolutely amazing views.

Lunch was at a disused train station, now a bikers’ café — the perfect place to stop, rest and refuel. It was also the ideal point to finish for the day if anyone felt they’d done enough riding.

Those who continued headed off with Ernst, climbing higher than the main bike trail to get a better look at the terrain and the path winding between the valleys. With great weather and a gentle breeze, it was wonderful riding. A visit to the Benedictine monastery added a lovely pause before continuing on.

Arriving at Hotel Carnia, our stop for the night, we enjoyed drinks and snacks by the van. After showers and a bit of downtime, everyone met at the bar for pre‑dinner drinks and a chance to chat about the day — such a nice group, all getting on so well.

Dinner at the hotel featured local dishes and complimentary wine — a perfect end to a wonderful day.

A fresh day to enjoy as we cycled from our roadside hotel back to the bike path and on to Venzone. This village was destroyed by an earthquake and has been carefully restored, with its ancient facades preserved and modern conveniences inside. We had a pleasant wander within the city walls, visiting the church, the mummies, and many small shops and cafes.

Back on our bikes, we continued south toward today’s endpoint: Udine in the plains. The mountain views gradually receded, replaced by flat farm fields flanking our cycle track. Close to the path ran the Tagliamento River, very much like a braided river in Southland, and considered one of the last untouched wild rivers in Europe. Lovely to see the sparkling surface, even with the water level so low after the hot summer.

We stopped in Osoppo for coffee — some chose to climb to the top of the hillock, others stayed in town. Not long after, we discovered Ernst with a picnic set up in the shade near a small stream. It was a wonderful lunch featuring local delicacies.

Refreshed, we moved on and finally reached Udine, grateful for the chance to shower and rest. In the early evening, Marco took us on a brief walk around the old town centre, followed by a fantastic dinner in a local restaurant. A perfect end to a great day’s ride. 

Early evening in Grado was everything you could want from an Italian evening, soft colours, warm air and a gentle breeze. We had a short walk to the quayside opposite the hotel and view down the channel through the private yachts to the distance fishing boats.

 Tonight we celebrated Jocelyn’s birthday as tomorrow (her actual birthday) is a rest day and dinner is independent. Tiramisu cake and song – Happy Birthday Jocelyn.

Most of the group gathered for a walk with a local guide through the old streets of Grado. Once a fishing village sleeping in its lagoon, it was later discovered by the elite of Austrian society and transformed into a pleasure destination known for sun, fresh air, and warm sea baths. The fishermen’s houses are still tucked away in narrow winding lanes alongside churches and campos (public squares).

Our first major stop was the Basilica of Sant’Eufemia, a large structure with a mosaic floor and high walls. Reconstructed after WWII, it retains fragments of its former self alongside modern embellishments. When we arrived, preparations were underway for an 11am wedding.

Nearby is the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a much more modest affair built on ancient foundations. This intimate space was created by locals before Grado became a tourist destination. Moving on, we passed recently uncovered Roman remains before stopping for a coffee in one of the many cafes found throughout Grado.

Just behind the cafe was the sea wall built by the Austrians, and from its height we could see far across the Mediterranean to Trieste, Slovenia, and Croatia — a soft shadow on the horizon. Margarita, our guide, entertained us with a legend about the Bora wind, and Ernst gamely enacted the part of the slain hero.

Returning to the shops, restaurants, and pedestrian area, we all enjoyed a taste of gelato and a welcome rest in the shade as the temperature climbed into the high 20s.

Back at the hotel, it was time to farewell our guide and decide how best to enjoy our rest day. Some went shopping, some swimming, some took a boat ride to a nearby island, and others simply relaxed.

At 6pm we met at the hotel bar to wish Jocelyn a happy birthday, and she very generously bought everyone a drink. One thing is certain — this group enjoys each other’s company, and there is never any shortage of conversation. Tomorrow, it’s back on the bikes.

Joy or joy — back on the bikes and headed north‑east, we left the town in our dust. Another beautiful day with a vast blue sky and fluffy clouds. It was Marco’s turn as cycle guide, and he smoothly led us along bike lanes and country roads through small, sleepy Italian villages. The flat terrain was mostly farmland with irrigation channels.

Morning tea was set out for us at the Visitors Centre beside a large marshland bird sanctuary. Norm went for a walk with his binoculars and found horses, egrets, and plenty of birdlife.

Refreshed, we headed out into the sun toward our lunch stop, Gradisca. Classed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, it was quiet today as we slowly cycled through. Marco had arranged a reservation at a local restaurant on the edge of town. We ate in a semi‑garden under white shade cloth and enjoyed a wonderful meal of pizza — ham and pear, fig and meat, salami…

Around 2pm we set off for the final kilometres to Gorizia. Unfortunately, Philip had a puncture, so while Marco repaired it we sat on the front doorstep and chatted. The owner of the house came out, gracious and welcoming, making sure nothing was wrong and inviting us to sit on her shady wall and wide steps. Tyre fixed, we moved on; only for Glen to also get a puncture. At this point Ernst met us on a bike, and the group divided between those heading up to see the war memorial and those wanting to go straight to the hotel. Most chose the hotel.

Another fantastic day, and more adventure tomorrow.

The weather continues to be wonderful, with sunshine all day. Today there was an oncoming breeze, so Turbo was engaged as we scaled the hills and coasted down into the valley. Most of our trail followed the Vipava River, crossing it many times as it wound through a beautiful valley filled with trees and small villages. Occasionally we passed the remains of old forts that once guarded the area. Vineyards, orchards, and neatly planted crops lined much of the route.

 

Morning break was at Stanjel, where the rest and shade were very welcome. 

Pushing on again, we headed to Vipava for a delicious lunch in their shady garden. At this point, some chose to jump in the support van as a decent climb was coming up. All of us finished the day at Postojna, home to the world‑famous Karst cave system.

You really have to visit this cave site to comprehend its size. To begin exploring, we boarded a narrow train that carried us along 5 km of double track. Cave after cavern opened up around us, filled with stalagmites, stalactites, columns, and veils — and these were only the smaller chambers. Once off the train, we walked slowly up concrete paths, across bridges, and through more caves, taking in the scale, variety, and colours of the formations.

Back at the hotel, it was time to chat over a drink and try the local wine.

A clear morning, a fully charged bike, and a friendly group to ride with — what could be better? We headed off after breakfast to Predjama Castle. This fortress is built into the caves of a cliff face and comes with a long and violent history. Cycling up to the foot of the castle, it rose above us — four storeys of sheer resistance.

Cycling on through the undulating countryside, there was beauty around every corner. Fields, forests, distant hills, and church steeples — a visual feast.

Switching to a forest road through silver fir, holm oak, and pine, we climbed a challenging hill before turning a corner to find a picnic lunch waiting for us. The joy of open‑air eating when the food is fresh and tasty and the forest surrounds you — wonderful. With some distance still to go to Ljubljana, Marco led us off through more forest and quiet country roads.

At our afternoon break stop, many a gelato was eaten — see the photo for the day’s challenge: How many ice‑creams can you get in one picture? Sadly, we had a few slips on the gravel, but thankfully everyone made it to the hotel. Tired and dusty, we were grateful for hot showers, comfortable rooms, and cool air‑conditioning.

Later we wandered out into the night for a walk along the river embankment to Berg Restaurant. Marching bands, plenty of diners, and people strolling in the pleasant evening air.

Seated outside, we felt the warm embrace of Slovenian hospitality — good food, wine, and friends. Walking back to the hotel, the city castle glowed on its mound, the river bridges were artfully lit, and lamps shone across the cobbled streets.

This day was gratefully received after several days of cycling. Once again, we had brilliant sunny weather and a lovely place to explore.

At 9.30am, Mandy took us on a slow walk around the old town centre — more of an orientation stroll than a lesson in dates and unpronounceable names (Slovenian appears to have lots of consonants and not enough vowels!).

The walk included the Triple Bridge, the heart of Ljubljana; a stumbling stone (remembering a Jewish family who perished in WWII); the market; Butchers’ Bridge, with its strange statues; Dragon Bridge; the way to the castle; the Town Hall; and some lovely examples of local architecture.

As a nice surprise, our cycle guides, Marko and Ernst, paid for a boat ride on the river — what a lovely treat!

After the boat trip, we went our many different directions: some up to the castle, some with Mandy for coffee and cake at her favourite cafe, and others shopping. A relaxing time was had by all, and many a gelato was consumed.

Rain was forecast for today and looking up into the blue sky over Ljubljana this morning, remembering all the fabulous weather we’ve had so far, it was hard to believe. However, as we rolled out of the city, the sky began to fill with thick cloud. By our coffee stop in Kranj, the sky was grey, and just as we were preparing to cycle, the first rumble of thunder sounded, and a few drops of rain arrived. It was a damp ride to the next break stop.

Out of the city we were in farming country, with vast fields of corn, soy, and clover. Once again we passed small communities and even saw animals outside. Today’s mission was to find the vertical hay racks distinctive to Slovenia; and we found them in abundance.

Marko met us at the break stop, and some chose to take the van to Bled as they were wet and cold; the rest pedalled on. The countryside around Bled was particularly picturesque, with the backdrop of mountains, green farmland, and tiny clusters of houses.

Triumph — we arrived in Bled, and the sun even came out to make the lake sparkle. Wonderful: three countries on two wheels, in the company of terrific people.

With steady rain settling in, we skipped the traditional 6km walk around Lake Bled today. Even without the lakeside loop, there was plenty to do — from exploring the village and castle to lingering over coffee and watching the mist drift across the water.

And yes, we still made time for Bled’s famous custard square. Invented right here and absolutely unmatched, it was the perfect treat for a damp day — big enough to share, and just as delicious as promised.

This evening we come together for our farewell dinner, a cosy end to a beautifully memorable journey.

And it's time to say goodbye!