Khor Virap in Armenia

It is possible to stand in the courtyard of Khor Virap in Armenia and gaze across the Turkish border to Mount Ararat. This huge mountain is off-limits to everyone; it’s rumoured that Noah’s Ark can be found there but no one is allowed to prove it. Closer at hand the border guardhouses can be seen but this traveller is not going to get anywhere near them. Much more approachable is the monastery of Khor Virap. It is here that Saint Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for 13 years by King Tiridates. The pagan king was converted (301AD) and Armenia became the first Christian country in the world. There is a bit more to the story with the usual mix of fair maiden, wicked romans and resourceful chaps like Gregory. It is even possible to see where this prison was and join the pilgrims making their way to the shrine of Gregory – so you can see he was a pretty important guy. I was rather surprised he didn’t join the long list of martyrs which seems dominate these historical stories of the Armenian church. 

However apart from the view, which is incredible, the small intimate monastery is a pleasure to visit. The stone walls surrounding the inner buildings stand on layered terraces and the church spires have a weathered red/brown colour. It’s all so old that it melts into the hill, the patches of green highlighting the worn rocks and stones. I like these quiet places, even though there are people about, there isn’t the noise and bustle of city churches. Back in the day it must have been a very isolated place. Gregory himself would have looked across the valley to the mountain and known the story of Noah.