Lahij Village in Azerbaijan

Lahij Village

Tat tat tat… long before you reach the metalwork shops you can hear the artisans at work. This small humble village is the home of metal workers in Azerbaijan. In fact it is considered one of the most ancient of human settlements and the locals (some 860 of them) speak a language called Tat, ironic but true.

To get to the village you first have to use a country road which was probably built by the Soviets and winds it way through the rural hills. You enter the village by a narrow-cobbled street lined by traditional homes. Stone street, stone walls with very few windows. The stones are layered with wooden beams so the structures can move in an earthquake before they are shattered. The lack of windows is from experience with invaders; fewer ingresses, fewer opportunities to be attacked.

Moving on to our modern times and Lahij rediscovering itself as a tourist destination. The doors now opening into treasure troves of shops stuffed full of copper, silver and brass. Carefully etched patterns cover the bowls, plates, jugs, cups and everything in between. Alongside the metal workers are jewellers, carpenters, carpet makers, engravers, painters, tanners, shoemakers and weavers. Yes, Aladdin caves of treasures!

Within the small village are three communities each with its own village square, mosque, hammam and graveyard. Based upon the very ancient Zoroastrian culture this village still retains its more primitive roots. Its all worth a wander before or after weaving in and out of the shops.

Personally, I love the iconic look of Lahij and the inevitable thick-set man dressed in black with his week-old stubble, a cigarette permanently attached to his lower lip and his body resting on the shop wall. He’s probably the owner assessing each tourist as we trot along, working how good we are at bargaining and which price to start the haggling from.

 As soon as I can I let them know we are from New Zealand, not American (high price) and not European (difficult). Its all fun and games and as long as you get a reasonable price for your treasure and they are willing to sell it, everyone is happy. As always I’ll be around to help with choice and negotiations – there is no doubt a smile and a joke helps the selling process (and the discounts) go smoothly.

So come with me and explore Lahij on our intriguing trip to South Caucasus.